﻿SYNTHETIC 
  PERFUMES 
  REDGROVE 
  259 
  

  

  The 
  odor 
  of 
  new-mown 
  hay 
  is 
  very 
  attractive 
  and 
  characteristic. 
  

   Synthetic 
  chemistry 
  enables 
  scents 
  exhaling 
  this 
  fragrance 
  to 
  be 
  easily 
  

   prepared. 
  The 
  odor 
  of 
  new-mown 
  hay 
  is 
  almost 
  entirely 
  due 
  to 
  cou- 
  

   marin, 
  which 
  occurs 
  in 
  Anthoxanthum 
  odoratum 
  (sweet 
  vernal 
  grass) 
  

   and 
  other 
  plants. 
  It 
  is 
  also 
  the 
  chief 
  odorous 
  principle 
  of 
  tonka 
  beans, 
  

   an 
  extract 
  of 
  which 
  was 
  the 
  chief 
  material 
  at 
  one 
  time 
  used 
  for 
  making 
  

   perfumes 
  having 
  odors 
  of 
  the 
  new-mown 
  hay 
  type. 
  Nowadays 
  cou- 
  

   marin 
  is 
  prepared 
  synthetically 
  on 
  a 
  large 
  scale, 
  not 
  only 
  for 
  the 
  pur- 
  

   pose 
  of 
  making 
  these 
  perfumes, 
  but 
  also 
  for 
  use 
  with 
  many 
  other 
  

   types 
  of 
  perfume 
  materials 
  as 
  a 
  fixative. 
  It 
  is 
  often 
  mixed 
  with 
  van- 
  

   illin 
  for 
  the 
  various 
  purposes 
  for 
  which 
  the 
  latter 
  substance 
  is 
  employed. 
  

  

  The 
  synthesis 
  of 
  coumarin 
  from 
  phenol 
  is 
  particularly 
  interesting. 
  

   The 
  phenol 
  can 
  first 
  be 
  converted 
  into 
  saliclic 
  aldehyde, 
  which 
  yields 
  

   coumarin 
  by 
  the 
  action 
  of 
  acetic 
  anhydride 
  and 
  sodium 
  acetate. 
  Sali- 
  

   cylic 
  aldehyde, 
  itself, 
  has 
  some 
  applications 
  in 
  perfumery. 
  Its 
  odor 
  

   resembles 
  that 
  of 
  meadow 
  sweet, 
  in 
  which 
  plant 
  it 
  actually 
  occurs. 
  

  

  In 
  Persia, 
  and 
  elsewhere 
  in 
  the 
  East, 
  tjie 
  odor 
  of 
  the 
  rose 
  is 
  held 
  in 
  

   the 
  highest 
  esteem, 
  and 
  many 
  readers 
  may 
  be 
  inclined 
  to 
  agree 
  with 
  

   those 
  easterns 
  who 
  consider 
  otto 
  of 
  roses 
  to 
  afford 
  the 
  finest 
  of 
  all 
  per- 
  

   fumes. 
  Nevertheless, 
  as 
  was 
  recognized 
  years 
  ago, 
  the 
  odor 
  of 
  the 
  

   otto, 
  obtained 
  by 
  steam 
  distillation, 
  falls 
  short 
  of 
  that 
  of 
  the 
  flower 
  

   itself. 
  For 
  long 
  the 
  reason 
  for 
  this 
  remained 
  a 
  mystery. 
  But 
  modern 
  

   chemistry 
  solved 
  the 
  riddle 
  and 
  supplied 
  the 
  means 
  of 
  remedying 
  the 
  

   defect. 
  The 
  cause 
  is 
  due 
  to 
  the 
  fact 
  that 
  one 
  of 
  the 
  constituents 
  of 
  the 
  

   natural 
  otto, 
  phenyl 
  ethyl 
  alcohol, 
  is 
  rather 
  soluble 
  in 
  water 
  and 
  is, 
  

   therefore, 
  washed 
  out 
  of 
  the 
  oil 
  in 
  the 
  process 
  of 
  manufacture, 
  being 
  

   obtained 
  almost 
  entirely 
  in 
  the 
  rose 
  water. 
  Phenyl 
  ethyl 
  alcohol 
  is 
  

   now 
  made 
  synthetically 
  by 
  the 
  reduction 
  of 
  esters 
  of 
  phenyl 
  acetic 
  

   acid; 
  and 
  by 
  its 
  aid 
  very 
  good 
  synthetic 
  rose 
  ottos 
  can 
  be 
  made. 
  

   Other 
  essential 
  ingredients 
  include 
  the 
  alcohols, 
  geraniol 
  andcitronellol. 
  

   The 
  first, 
  as 
  already 
  mentioned, 
  is 
  isolated 
  from 
  the 
  cheap 
  oils 
  of 
  citro- 
  

   nella 
  and 
  palmarosa; 
  the 
  second 
  is 
  made 
  by 
  the 
  reduction 
  of 
  citronellal 
  

   isolated 
  from 
  the 
  first 
  of 
  these 
  two 
  oils. 
  

  

  Another 
  product 
  obtained 
  from 
  citronella 
  also 
  calls 
  for 
  mention 
  on 
  

   account 
  of 
  its 
  importance. 
  This 
  is 
  hydroxy-citronellal, 
  a 
  substance 
  

   which 
  provides 
  a 
  good 
  example 
  of 
  those 
  synthetic 
  products 
  which 
  

   enable 
  the 
  fragrances 
  of 
  flowers 
  to 
  be 
  very 
  exactly 
  imitated, 
  the 
  extrac- 
  

   tion 
  of 
  whose 
  natural 
  ottos 
  has 
  not 
  been 
  found 
  practicable. 
  Hydroxy- 
  

   citronellal 
  is 
  obtained 
  by 
  the 
  hydration 
  of 
  citronellal, 
  and 
  is 
  used 
  for 
  

   making 
  scents 
  exhaling 
  odors 
  resembling 
  those 
  of 
  lily-of-the-valley 
  

   (muguet), 
  cyclamen, 
  lilac, 
  and 
  lime-tree 
  blossoms. 
  

  

  There 
  are 
  those 
  who 
  would 
  give 
  pride 
  of 
  place 
  to 
  the 
  sweet 
  violet 
  

   amongst 
  flowers 
  of 
  pleasant 
  odor. 
  Certainly 
  scents 
  exhaling 
  the 
  fra- 
  

   grance 
  of 
  this 
  lovely 
  httle 
  flower, 
  which 
  was 
  so 
  highly 
  esteemed 
  by 
  the 
  

   ancient 
  Greeks, 
  are 
  exceedingly 
  popular 
  to-day, 
  and 
  can 
  be 
  quite 
  

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