The Aquarium. 



A Series of Artk-les on the Constiuetion, Equipment 



and Maintenance of Aquaria, and the 



Breeding of Goldfish. 



C. G. B. SCHENK, IMilwauliee. 



//. Metal-frame Aquaria. 



IN the February number we took up 

 the advantages and disadvantages 

 of the all-glass aquarium. In this article 

 we will take up the metal-frame tank 

 with glass sides and ends. 



In determining the material we are 

 going to use, we can consider iron, which 

 should be smooth so it can be neatly 

 painted or nickel-plated, brass, polished 

 or nickel-plated, and aluminum. If a 

 nickel-plated frame is wanted, aluminum 

 is the best, as plating may in time wear 

 off, which would make a very unsightly 

 tank. 



Supposing you have decided on the 

 material, the next thing to consider is 

 the size. My advice is to make the tank 

 as large as your purse, and the space 

 where the aquarium is to be placed, 

 will allow. In determining the pro- 

 portions, have the length the largest 

 measurement: the heighth, two inches 

 greater than the width. I say two inches 

 greater than the width, because, when 

 you have put two or three inches of 

 sand on the bottom, the water depth 

 will not be more than the width. This 

 is as it should be, for while we can 

 make the tank as long and as wide as 

 we wish, the depth must under no cir- 

 cumstance be greater than the width. 

 But we want as much depth as possible 

 for the plants. I will give one set of 

 measurements for a very desirable size 

 aquarium: 24 inches long x 14 inches 

 high X 12 inches wide. 



My advice is to have the frame made 

 by some one who has the necessary 

 materials, tools and mechanics. I have 

 had a number of brass frames of the 

 size mentioned made for three dollars 



each. By the time you buy the angle 

 brass, and figure the trouble, not to 

 mention a possible outlay for tools, you 

 wont save very much by constructing it 

 yourself. However, for those who prefer 

 to make their own, the proposition is 

 simple. A frame of this size requires 

 no rivets, only soldering of the joints 

 being necessary. 



Have the bottom of your tank made 

 of wider surface material than the 

 corner uprights and top. For a frame 

 as mentioned, have the bottom of 1:^ inch 

 surface, corners and top of one inch. 

 The purpose of this is to take care of 

 the bottom strain which is much greater 

 than the top and sides. Material one- 

 sixteenth of an inch thick is heavy 

 enough for the size tank above mention- 

 ed. Use one-quarter inch plate glass 

 for the sides, ends and bottom. In 

 having the glass cut, the best way is to 

 take the frame to the glazier so he can 

 get all measurements accurate. Be care- 

 ful against scratches on the glass. When 

 ordering the glass fitted, have the sides 

 go first, the ends next, and the bottom 

 last. Allow one-eighth inch for cement 

 around all measurements. 



There are a number of good formulas 

 for cement. I will give three, all of 

 which have stood the test. 

 1. 



1 part white lead (ground in oil) 



1 part litharge (dry) 

 Mix together to make a good working 

 putty. 

 2. 



1 part zinc white (dry) 



1 part spar varnish 



Mix into good working putty. 

 3. 



1 part litharge (dry) 



1 part white lead (dry) 



1 part fine sand 



ir part powdered resin 

 Mix with boiled oil into putty with a 

 little patent dryer. 

 Now with our frame, glass and cement 



