NO. 2235. 



HOPI INDIAN COLLECTION— HOUGH. 



243 



the Mexican poncho (fig. 6). This early form with the addition 

 of sleeves was sewed partly down either side, leaving openings under 

 the armpits and slits in the skirts (fig. 7). The sleeves were loose and 

 short. This shirt-coat, which is shown complete in figure 8, had 

 little ornament, but modernly bits of ribbon and stitchings of red 

 and green worsted have been affected. No undergarment except a 

 loin cloth was worn (fig. 9). This feature of dress is well nigh uni- 

 versal and may be considered among the most primitive. The cere- 

 monial costume gives a good indication of the archaic dress. This 

 consists of a width of cloth finished on the edges, wrapped sarong 

 fashion around the waist and held by a 

 belt (fig. 10). The leather belt was prob- 

 ably not' worn in ancient times and not 

 generally in modern times, those found 

 among the Hopi being adopted from the 

 Navaho. These costly leather belts, heav- 

 ily adorned with large pierced and chased 

 silver plaques, are worn by young men 

 who wish to be leaders of fashion. 

 Woven belts and garters for holding the 

 leggings are ancient (fig. 11). 



It is difficult to ascertain whether the 

 legging was anciently used. The pre- 

 sumption, however, is that it came into 

 use at the time when the moccasin re- 

 placed the sandal. The legging was a 

 square of tanned deerskin folded once 

 around the calf of the leg and tied with 

 a thong or woven garter (fig. 12 a-h). A 

 more ornamental legging with pairs of 

 tying cords and fringe (fig. 13) is a com- 

 panion piece with the " old style " shirt 

 (fig. 5), Another more pronounced in 

 art, folded on the leg and tied with the 

 garter, is shown in figure 14. Knit leggings are sometimes worn by 

 old men and women. 



Moccasins are worn by all Hopi men. Though their form is char- 

 acteristic and not to be confounded with those made by any other 

 tribe, it is a fact borne out by archaeological evidence that the Hopi 

 and other Pueblo tribes anciently were sandal-wearing peoples and 

 it must be concluded that the leather moccasin was acquired from 

 the non-Pueblo tribes. Peculiarities in the manufacture of the Hopi 

 moccasin, especially the sole bent up around the sides of the foot, 

 seem to point to the Navaho and Apache as the tribes responsible 

 for the change in footwear, and this change probably took place after 



Fig. 



6 —Archaic form of shirt 

 of woven stuff. 



