252 



PROCEEDINGS OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 



VOL. 54. 



A curious and rare article of costume is an eye shade, which is 

 made of a circular frame of rods (fig. 2Sb) to fit around" the head 

 and a bowed frame attached, covered with skin to form a visor 

 (fig. 28a). 



WEAVING. 



The summer climate of the elevated region inhabited b}* the Hopi 

 is that of Maine, but the winter temperature, while not so low is 



nevertheless cold enough to necessi- 

 tate substantial woolen clothing- 

 For centuries the Hopi have been 

 famed as weavers of excellent blue 

 cloth which was traded for by many 

 tribes living far or near in the 

 Pueblo region. The Hopi did not 

 weave cloth in a commercial sense; 

 the products of their looms were 

 mostly finished " blankets ■' of estab- 

 tablished measurement (50 by 60 

 inches), which without cutting or 

 alteration would make a woman's 

 dress or smaller " blankets " for chil- 

 dren (see Costume, p. 247). The 

 true blanket or scrape, like those for 

 whose manufacture the Navaho are 

 celebrated, was so rarely made by 

 the Hopi that it can scarcely be con- 

 sidered in describing their textile in- 

 dustry. Narrower widths of woolen 

 stuff than that of the woman's dress 

 were made for men's garments. Spe- 

 cial weavings of cotton, or of cotton 

 and wool, as the wedding blanket 

 and the girls' shoulder wrap, etc., 

 were of ceremonial character and are 

 treated under separate headings. 



Materials. — The earliest fabric 

 of the Hopi referred to by wlute 

 men A\'as made of cotton and this textile material is found in the 

 ancient sites of the Pueblo region. Cotton and shredded yucca fiber 

 were the ancient vegetable fabric materials. The use of cotton has 

 survived the introduction of wool, being prescribed for textiles used 

 in ceremonials, the largest work being the wedding blanket (see also 

 Hair cord, p. 2G1). Cotton was prepared by whipping the fiber- 

 enveloped seeds with a bundle of pliant rods (fig. 29) on a bed of 

 sand, the process being shown in figure 30. This primitive gin 

 removes the seeds and leaves the cotton in a fluffy mass, which is 



Fig. 2?.— Woman's moccasin legging. 

 a, sole; 6, vamp; c, wtiapping; d, vamp 



SOLE AND -SVRAPPING JOINED; f, COM- 

 PLETE. 



