258 



PROCEEDlNaiS OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 



Weaving of kilts. — The kilts worn by Hopi priests in ceremonies 

 are of two kinds, plain woven cloth, which is made of coarse cotton 

 yarn strongly fulled and resembling canvas, decorated with symbolic 

 designs in red, black, and white paint w^orn by the Snake and Ante- 

 lope fraternity; and the other of similar canvas decorated with 

 woven designs in bright woi*sted, worn by the Flute and other frater- 

 nities. These are woven in small looms, the tools and procedure be- 

 ing the same as 

 in the blanltet 

 loom except that 

 in the second va- 

 riety the heddles 

 are set to work 

 in the patterns 

 in colored yarns. 

 Sometimes, how- 

 ever, the designs 

 are worked in 

 by embroidering 

 after the piece is 

 finished in the 

 loom. The up- 

 per border is 

 corded with 

 black yarn. The 

 lower edge is 

 finished with a 

 braid of black 

 wool sewed . to 

 the margin. 

 The corners are 

 finished with 

 small tassels. 

 These kilts are 

 20 inches wide 

 and 39J inches 



Fig. 35.— Sash loom with weaving in process. Weft comb (to right). lonff. 



Weaving of sashes. — Sashes worn in ceremonies are panels of plain 

 weaving of cotton or wool, decorated at the end with designs in col- 

 ored yarns and terminating in a fringe. They are woven plain for 

 part of the length and then the heddles are adjusted to work in the 

 patterns in yarns (fig. 35). Two sections or panels thus made are 

 sewed together at the upper end with a roving of cord. In most 

 specimens in the Museum the warp and weft are yarn of the same 

 size. Where the decorated weaving begins a much finer weft is used. 



