THE ANGOKA GOAT. 41 



that was entirely free from it. Kemp may be best detected by separating the mohair 

 upon the thigh of the animal and closely inspecting the roots of the hair. It will he 

 seen as short, coarse, lusterl ess fibers closely intermingled with the long, silky mohair. 



After the mohair sorter has done his work with a fleece the fiher is 

 scoured, dried, and straightened, and then put upon a combing machine. 

 This machine separates all fibers, whether of kemp or mohair, of 4 

 inches in length and under. Kemp of a greater length than 4 inches 

 remains with the longer mohair. If there is much of this long kemp 

 after the first combing, the fiber passes through a second combing, 

 the machine being set to throw out the kemp and mohair of greater 

 length. 



The residue of these two combings, being a mixture of kemp and 

 short mohair, is called noilage. The first lot of noils is about 2 inches 

 long and the second 4 or more inches long. The length of the second 

 noils will vary with difl'erent grades of mohair, depending upon the 

 length of the kemp present. 



Some mohair will shrink 40 per cent in weight in the first combing 

 and 15 percent in the second. The mohair thus combed is used in the 

 fabrication of plushes and fine dress goods, while the noils go into the 

 manufacture of carpets, blankets, hats, etc. 



In a recent article in the Oregon Agriculturist, Mr. George B. 

 Goodall saj^s: 



A majority of the mohair growers in this country little realize how much kemp 

 has to do in keejjing down values of their clips. If they could si)end a few hours 

 in our sorting and combing rooms the lesson learned would be of great value to 

 them — more than could be obtained by reading. In watching the combs at work 

 they would notice some making 5, 10, or 12 per cent of noil or waste, while others 

 will be taking out 30 or 40 per cent. Ask the comber the reason of this and he will 

 reply that one lot has a much larger amount of kemp than the other. One fiber of 

 kemp takes out five or six good fibers which, should go into yarn. It may not 

 generally be known why kemp is such an objection, but when we state that it will 

 not take color, but remains nearly white in the goods after passing through the dye 

 bath, you will understand why I write so strongly on this point. If you want to 

 form some idea of how a fabric looks made from kempy mohair yarn, just look at a 

 man's hair that has commenced to turn gray, especially dark or black hair. 



Through the kindness of Mr. Goodall the Bureau of Animal Indus- 

 try has received some samples of low-grade plushes for car seats 

 which show the effects of kemp in mohair. Although in this case 

 dyes were used which acted to some extent upon the kemp, the coarse, 

 dull-colored hairs are easily seen. An effort was made to photograph 

 the samples for reproduction in this paper, but it was impossible to 

 bring out the details sufiicient to show the kemp, although it was 

 plainly visible, under certain lights, in the plushes. 



The following is taken from Mr. E. H. Jobson's Angora Goat 

 Raising: 



In the first crossing of goats the kemp hair will be paramount in appearance with 

 the mohair and will be very coarse, and as the animal becomes better graded the 

 shorter the kemp will be, and it also generally becomes of a finer fiber as the pure 



