[3] THE SARDINE FISHERIES. 165 
The boats come as near the shore as the depth of the water will allow. 
At the moment when they are about to cast anchor the scene is par- 
ticularly lively. Hundreds of boats containing fish-dealers of both 
sexes and agents of the factories are engaged in an eager race to reach 
the fishing boats. Some people roll up their pants or gather up their 
dresses and boldly step into the water, whilst others take a complete 
bath. 
After the price has been fixed the fish are gathered in baskets which 
hold about 500 fish each. The bearers generally dip the baskets a few 
times in the water so as to make the fish look fresh, and carry them up 
to the shore, where they are salted if destined to be eaten immediately. 
During the fishing season sardines take the place of money and are not 
refused by any one. Carriers and other laborers are paid in sardines, 
and it is said to be a common sight to see a child go into a store, buy 
some candy, and pay for it with two or three sardines. 
Some factories have their own fishing-vessels, others have a contract 
with some fishermen to supply them regularly with sardines, whilst 
some only buy their fish whenever they need them. These factories only 
take sardines which are very fresh, and which have not been salted in 
the least. As soon as the fish are received at the factory they are im- 
mediately prepared; women cut off the heads of the fish, clean them, 
and lay them side by side on flat stones, which are thinly covered with 
salt. This is called the “first drying.” Whilstthefish lie on these stones 
for some time, enormous boilers with the finest olive-oil are placed over 
the fire, and as soon as the oil boils the sardines are put, by layers, in 
wire baskets. These baskets are dipped into the boiling oil, and are 
then placed on frames to let the oil drip off. When the fish have be- 
come tolerably dry, they are taken into the drying-rooms, where they 
are exposed to the sea air, and where they remain a longer or shorter 
time, according to the condition ofthe atmosphere. They are thereupon 
sorted, the largest being used for select sardines. 
The packing is done very carefully ; after the sardines are put in the 
boxes, they are placed under an oil tank where fresh oil is constantly 
filledin. Atlast the lidis closed. This must be done very carefully, as 
the slightest break or hole, invisible to the naked eye, is apt to spoil the 
contents of abox. To ascertain that the boxes are properly closed, they 
are for a few seconds put in boiling water. Those boxes which are not 
well closed will bulge out; and in that case they are cut open, the fish 
are taken out and placed in another box. After the boxes have received 
the factory mark they are ready for the market. 
