by Egypt and the Red Sea. 237 



and the boys will point, and even throw stones at a person in 

 a Frank dress. This may be passed unnoticed ; but the men 

 also will sometimes show insolence, in which case it is neces- 

 sary to be decided, and to make them know at once that you 

 are prepared, and willing to use your arms. Pistols, there- 

 fore, should be always carried in a waist belt, when a person 

 goes to any distance from his people. At Jidda, the com- 

 pany have a native agent, Hassan Aga, who gives lodgings, 

 &c, to Europeans during their stay here ; and at Mocha, the 

 presence of the resident insures some degree of respect and 

 protection ; but, otherwise, little advantage will be derived 

 from their assistance. 



As the Pacha of Egypt, however, is extending his con- 

 quests on both sides of the Red Sea, and is only prevented 

 from taking Mocha by the fear of offending us, it is not im- 

 probable that the European traveller, in a short time, will 

 pass down the Red Sea with as much security as he passes at 

 present through Egypt. The army which Mahomet Ali has 

 in Arabia, amounts to about 10,000 men. With these he 

 has garrisoned Mecca and the ports ; and last year he took 

 the field with 7000 men against the tribes east of Comfi- 

 dah, on the frontiers of Sana, or Yemen, from which he had 

 just returned with partial success when we were at Mocha. 

 These tribes were said to be the remains of the Wachabees. 

 So long as this army is maintained in Arabia, the intercourse 

 will be considerable with Egypt, and the security of travel- 

 ling much greater. 



The traveller himself must lay in provisions for the voy- 

 age, as these Arab vessels merely supply wood and water. 

 Wine, spirits, tea, and any other luxury, must be laid in for 

 the whole voyage from Cairo to India ; particularly the two 

 first, as they are articles prohibited in Mahometan countries. 

 The servant who attends him must be able to cook victuals ; 

 and he should also be able to speak Arabic, which will pre- 

 vent, the necessity of having a dragoman. One such servant, 

 with a native one to assist, would be sufficient for two travel- 

 lers. The sailors, however, particularly those on the Nile, 

 ■re willing, in general, to give assistance. All sorts of pro- 

 visions are very plentiful in Egypt ; they arc less so at the 



