118 Mr Cruckshanks's Excursion from Lima to Pasco. 



than huts, and the population of the two towns, chiefly Indian, 

 is only about eight hundred souls. 



" The day after our arrival was the feast of St John, the patron 

 saint of Obrajillo. Our muleteer being one of the alcaldes of the 

 town, and named after the saint, his presence was considered 

 necessary at the festival. It was recollected, too, that the name 

 of my friend was likewise John, and as the people of the town 

 are chiefly supported by the traffic occasioned by the mines, 

 which was expected to be greatly increased by the erection of 

 the steam engines for draining them, it was argued, that there 

 could be no hope of patronage from the saint in the undertaking 

 if we refused to devote a day to him. A still more powerful 

 argument was mentioned incidentally, that, as the fresh mules 

 were feeding at some distance, they might not arrive sufficiently 

 early for us to start the following day, even if we wished it, 

 which meant, as we knew by experience, that the mules certainly 

 would not arrive, whatever our wishes might be, and we were 

 therefore obliged to declare our willingness to do honour to the 

 saint. For my part, I was very well pleased to stay, as the de- 

 lay gave me time to pack up my seeds, and change the papers 

 of my plants, and to collect a few more in the neighbourhood. 



" On the 24th, St John's day, a great part of the population 

 of Canta and Obrajillo assembled at the church of the latter to 

 hear mass. The walls of the building were decorated with 

 large bouquets and festoons of flowers, and the interior was 

 lighted up by a great number of candles, mostly furnished by 

 the poor Indians, who are taught to consider such contributions 

 as part of their religious duties. Among other ornaments, we 

 were struck by a unique display of small flags, formed of colour- 

 ed cotton handkerchiefs of different patterns, from the looms of 

 Manchester and Glasgow, fastened to canes that were stuck into 

 the walls. There was not room within the church for all those 

 assembled, and many knelt in the open air before the door, 

 where they remained till the mass was said ; and during the 

 whole time, six Indian girls were dancing, and singing in the 

 Quichua language, in the midst of them. When the unfortu- 

 nate aborigines of these countries were first subjugated by the 

 Spaniards, in order to insure their attendance at the festivals of 

 the Catholic Church, the priests allowed them to use the songs 



