THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 67 
which it is intended to compete. At the majority of the shows 
either eight or nine-inch pots are allowed, sometimes one and some- 
times the other; and the intending exhibitors must ascertain the 
size of pot in which the plants are to be shown before they receive 
the final shift. Sometimes larger pots are permitted, and they 
should, as a rule, be put into the largest size allowed by the schedule. 
The pots must be carefully crocked ; first of all lay a large con- 
cave piece over the hole, and then form a layer about two inches 
in thickness, with crocks of medium size, and from the heap of 
compost select the roughest portion, to form a covering to the 
drainage, and keep the soil in its proper place. The crocks from 
the bottom of the ball must be removed, and the roots round the 
outside carefully loosened with a pointed stick to facilitate their 
striking into the new soil. The compost for the large flowering kinds 
should consist of six parts of loam, two parts of manure, and one part 
of sand, and for the pompone varieties two-thirds loam and one-third 
manure, with a rather more liberal proportion of sand. Firm 
potting is desirable, and sufficient space must be left on the surface 
to hold a goodly quantity of water ; for pots of the usual sizes rather 
more than an inch from the upper edge of the rim will be required. 
If the growth has been stopped in the manner suggested above, 
they will, by the time they receive their final shift, be well furnished 
with shoots, and these must be tied out loosely with the aid of neat 
stakes, and immediately the plants are again established be stopped, 
by having the points of the shoots nipped out. 
In the first week in July training must be commenced in earnest, 
and the outside shoots brought down in an horizontal direction. 
Some growers use stakes only, but it is preferable to have a ring of 
stout wire, from thirty inches to three feet in diameter, to which to 
tie down the shoots. The ring is formed by simply securing the two 
ends of the wire together ; and by means of two cross pieces of wood, or 
of stout wire, placed at right angles, and four pegs, it can be fastened 
down as firmly as could be desired. The shoots towards the miédle 
of the plant must be fastened down to short stakes. The stopping 
must be followed up according to the progress made, and between 
the 10th and 20th of July stop for the last time, and continue to 
train the shoots to form a well-balanced specimen. The training, 
especially where there are any stout shoots to be brought down 
horizontally, should be done when the sun is shining brightly, for 
they are then more flexible than at any other time, and are not so 
likely to snap. The training must be completed by the third week 
in September, excepting it be the regulation of the points of the 
shoots when the buds are partly developed, to secure a regular dis- 
position of the flowers over the entire surface. If the training is 
deferred beyond this period, there will not be time for the foliage to 
assume its natural form before the flowers are developed. Onl 
one flower should be left to each shoot, and, asa rule, all but the 
terminal bud to each must be removed as soon as they are far enough 
advanced for it to be done. Early in October remove them indoors, 
and place in a light and airy structure, and as near the glass as can 
be conveniently done. 
March, 
