124 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
Earth up and stick peas. Seeds of sweet and pot herbs that stiil remain unsown 
must be got in at once. Those sown in heat should be pricked off into small pots 
or cold frame, to well harden off before planting out. Prepare trenches for celery, 
and put at least six inches of good rotten manure in the bottom, and just cover 
with soil. The spaces between the rows may be occupied with lettuces and radishes. 
Seakale for forcing can be raised in one season, if the small side-roots, or “ thongs” 
are now planted in rows in good rich soil. All salading, such as lettuce, endive, 
and redishes, must have rich soil after this season, otherwise they will make a slow 
growth, and be of little value. Potatoes in heavy cold soils must now be planted. 
Protect early kinds now peeping through the ground, by drawing a little soil over 
them. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Pruning ought to be finished before this. Continue to protect peaches and nec- 
tarines ; care, however, must be exercised, so that the young growth is not drawn 
weak and spindly through too thick a covering. If blinds of tiffany or canvas are 
used, roll them up during the day, but where branches of fir or fern are used, about 
half the quantity should now be taken off. Thin out apricots, and disbud; but 
proceed cautiously and gradually, so as not to produce too great a check. 
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 
Plants of all kinds will now require increased supplies of water, those in flower 
must not be allowed to suffer for the want of this element, or the flowers will soon 
drop. Sow primulas and cinerarias for early bloom, and place the seed pans in a 
shady corner until the plants are up. Lilium auratum, and the varieties of L. lanci- 
folium, will now require plenty of water. Place in a cold frame, where they can 
be freely exposed to the air, previous to being placed out of doors next month. 
Cytisus should be pruned into shape immediately they go out of flower, and directly 
they break, be repotted. Autumn-struck and old plants of fuchsias will require 
shifting into larger pots. Keep the whole of the plants in a brisk growing tempera- 
ture, well syringed and pinched, as required. 
VINERY. 
The shoots of the vines in the late house are generally very brittle early in the 
day, therefore the training of these should not be done until after the sun has been 
shining upon them for three or four hours, which will make them more pliable, and 
less likely to snap off. In the other houses, stopping and regulating the shoots 
mist be done as circumstances demand; it is bad practice to stop during the time 
the grapes are stoning. Thin out before the berries are crowded in the bunch, and 
avoid cold currents of air passing over them. Cold chills at this period of their 
existence are very frequent causes of “rust.” The inside borders must not, on any 
account, be allowed to become tuo dry ; examine them two or three feet below the 
surface. 
STOVE. 
Maintain a thoroughly moist atmosphere by throwing plenty of water on the 
flor. Shut up early, and use as li'tle fire-heat as possible. Train specimen plants 
of a climbirg habit as fast as they make new growth, to prevent their getting out 
of form. All the plants that require a shift must have it at once, as better growth 
will be made in the fresh soil than in that which is now worn out; syringe freely. 
GarpEN Sticks anp LABELS are in constant request in the gardens of all 
classes, and as a great saving of time and labour is effected by purchasing them 
ready made, we shall be doing good service to our readers by reminding them that 
Messrs. Blackith & Co., Lower Thames Street, E.C., have constantly on hand a very 
large stock of these articles. The sticks may be had in various lengths, ranging 
from one to five feet, and the labels from four to eighteen inches in length ; and 
after considerable experience with them we can strongly recommend both labels 
and sticks for their cheapness, neat appearance, and excellent quality. 
