156 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
the lawn, to promote a close bottom, and give everything a fresh and bright 
appearance. 
KITOHEN GARDEN. 
Weeds grow with great rapidity at this season of the year, and every exertion 
must be made to keep them down, or they will fill the ground with seeds. Thin 
out all permanent seed-beds, such as onions, carrots, etc., and plant out broccoli, 
cauliflowers, cabbage, kales, etc., for the winter, as the plants become large enough 
to transplant, before they are too much crowded. Sow scarlet-runners, dwarf 
French beans, beet, turnips, spinach, endive, and lettuce; the two last should be 
sown where they are to remain, to prevent their running to seed so quickly, as is the 
case when sown in beds and transplanted. Also sow marrow peas, and earth up 
and stick those already forward enough. Prick out the late sown celery, and make 
trenches, and plant out the earliest batch. Shade with a few branches of ever- 
greens for a few days after planting, and keep well supplied with water. 
sf FRUIT GARDEN. 
In disbudding wall trees, guard against denuding the trees too much at one 
time ; remove the foreright shoots first, and then begin again, and remove those 
not required for training in. Proceed cautiously with thinning the fruit until the 
end of the month. Remove the runners from the strawberry plants directly they 
push, if not wanted for layering, or the parent plants will soon be choked up with 
the young brood. 
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 
Now that the frames are clear of the hosts of bedding plants with which they 
have been filled through the winter, all small soft-wooded stuff should be removed to 
them, and hard-wooded plants must have light and air, now that they are growing 
freely. Azaleas and camellias require a warm, moist atmosphere when makirg their 
growth, and to have plenty of air directly it is made. Freely ventilate New 
Holland plants of every description, and attend carefully to the watering, and be 
particular that each has sufficient to moisten every particle of the soil in the pot. 
Any plants growing in peat, that become dust dry before watering, should have the 
pots stood in a vessel of water for twenty minutes or so, to ensure the bulb being 
thoroughly moistened. Shift and stop fuchsias and petunias ; water them with 
manure-water as they become pot-bound. Expose pelargoniums for a week or so 
after they go out of flower, and then cut back and shake out, and repot as soon as 
they are nicely started into growth. 
VINERY. 
Borders inside the house must be liberally supplied with water, where the crops 
are swelling, and the atmosphere kept moist by throwing water ou the paths, and 
sprinkling the beds and walls. Where the grapes are colouring, give abundant 
ventilation, and keep the atmosphere dry. The crops should be watched, and the 
border have a good soaking just before the grapes commence colouring, so that no 
more is required until that process is finished. Shift on young vines in pots, and 
help those bearing crops with liquid manure. 
STOVE. 
Large numbers of orchidaceous plants will now be in flower, and every means, 
consistent with the health of the plants, must be adopted to preserve the freshness 
and beauty of the flowers as long as possible. A cool, dry atmosphere is necessary 
for this purpose. Shift those in the hottest house into the cool house, and those from 
the cool house into the greenhouse, where they can be shaded and kept close; for, 
on no account, must the plants be exposed to currents of air. Gesneras and other 
plants, intended for winter blooming, must soon have their last shift. Shade during 
bright sunshine, and place those in flower by themselves, so that the flowers receive 
no injury from the syringiag, which has now become a daily necessity. 
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