THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 231 
flower-heads, and as only one flower-head, as is well-known, is pro- 
duced upon each shoot, it will be readily understood that fully- 
developed examples cannot be produced in twelve or eighteen 
months. I would suggest that in the early part of the year— 
February or March, for example—a beginning be made with plants 
well established in five or six-inch pots. The first step will be to 
prune them back to the second or third joint from the base ; and 
the next to shift them into eight-inch pots. A certain latitude is 
allowed in reference to pruning, and with a view to afford all the 
information possible, I will add that plants with stout stems-should 
be cut back to the third joint, and those of less strength to: the 
second joint. The same rule must be followed in pruning them in 
the second and subsequent years, excepting that the shoots of the 
previous season are operated upon instead of the main stem, as in 
the first instances. The pruning should also be done somewhat 
earlier in the seasons subsequent to the first, and the plants be 
placed in a frame, with protection from frost, until they are rooted. 
At each shift, pots two sizes larger than those previously occupied 
should be employed, and when they become too large for fifteen- 
inch pots, they must be destroyed, to make room for younger 
examples. When repotted, as here advised, no second shift in the 
same year is necessary; indeed, it is not desirable, for it is not good 
for the plants to be disturbed at the roots in the course of the grow- 
ing season. The compost found to suit them best is prepared by the 
incorporation of two parts each of turfy loam and peat and a part 
each of leaf-mould and well-decayed manure. The drainage must be 
just sufficient to carry off the superfluous moisture, and the soil be 
pressed firm. 
In the management of the plants remove weakly shoots from 
those likely to become overcrowded, so that the growth required for 
the formation of the specimen may have room enough for its full 
development. To have the wood well ripened by the autumn is also 
important, and to ensure the thorough maturation of the new growth, 
the plants should, as soon as the beauty of the flowers is past, be 
placed in a sunny position out-of-doors. It may also be well to 
remind readers that the young shoots should be tied out neatly at an 
early stage, to afford space for the development of the foliage with- 
out overcrowding. From the time of their commencing to make 
new growth in the spring, most abundant supplies of water are 
necessary, and when the shoots are four or five inches in length, 
supply them with clear water and liquid manure alternately. They 
must also be syringed overhead daiiy until they are coming into 
bloom. Indeed, an abundance of moisture is so essential that large 
specimens may be placed in pans of water when in full growth. The 
plants may be allowed to produce their flowers from the time of 
their being put into eight-inch pots until they attain to specimen 
size. 
I have directed attention to the production of specimens of these 
fine old flowers because of the grand appearance they have in the 
conservatories, in balconies, and in suitable positions upon the 
terrace. They are especially useful to amateurs who have no glass 
August. 
