256 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
no remedy—at least, we know of nothing that will close them together again. 
The fruit will attain maturity if nearly ripe, and no water be allowed to lodge in 
the cavity. 
Turtps ON VinEs.—Amateur Grape-grower.—The vines are badly infested with 
thrips. Nothing can be done until the crop is gathered, when the vines should 
undergo a thorough fumigation. Smoke the vinery three times with an interval of 
two or three days between each time. Allow the laterals to grow unchecked, and 
if the first series of smokings is not sufficient to thoroughly eradicate the pest, 
famigate again as soon as it shows the least signs of life. Carefully guard against 
applying the smoke in too strong doses, or the foliage will receive considerahle 
injury. 
: Cemex OF THE KaALosanTHES.—G.S.—To propagate a stock of those 
beautiful late summer flowering plants, insert at once, in pots, properly prepared 
cuttings of the tops of the young-growing shoots that have not flowered. The 
cuttings will strike freely if inserted in light sandy soil, and placed in a warm corner 
of the greenhouse, where they can be partly shaded from the sun during the hottest 
part of the day. Pot off when rooted into three-inch pots, and in the month of 
February following shift them into six-inch pots. If you are anxious to have large 
handsome specimens, stop the young shoots twice or three times during the season, 
and in June shift the stock into eight-inch pots. The young plants will require 
stopping as soon as they are established in the pots into which they are put when 
first potted off. In subsequent years, a8 soon as the beauty of the flowers is past, cut 
the branches back to within about two inches of the base, and as soon as the young 
growth is about half-an-inch in length, turn them out of the pots, partly reduce the 
ball of soil, and repot in others one size larger ; the following spring shift into two 
sizes larger. When cut back and repotted the second year, they should be returned 
to the same sized pot again ; and in the spring of the third year a pot one size larger 
will be quite sufficient. During this time due attention must be paid to training the 
young growth, or the Jabour and attention of potting and watering will be simply 
wasted. The soil should consist of two parts turfy loam, one part fibry peat, and 
one part of leaf-mould or thoroughly-decayed hotbed manure; or the fourth part 
may consist of equal quantities of leaf-mould and manure. The whole of the in- 
gredients must be well incorporated together, and a liberal proportion—say a fifth 
part—of silver-sand must be added. The stock must be kept in a light and rather 
airy situation during the winter; but it must not be exposed to any cold draughts, 
Very little moisture will be required at the roots when the plants are at rest, which, 
generally speaking, is from October until February. At other times they require 
rather liberal supplies, and a few doses of weak liquid manure will be highly 
advantageous during the early part of the year, when they are growing freely. 
lt is highly essential to have the pots efficiently drained. 
Tuer Best Pras.—In a trial culture of a large number of varieties of peas 
by Mr. Shirley Hibberd at Stoke Newington, the following proved to be distinct 
and fine :—Zazton’s William I. was the best early pea, and Allen’s Champion 
the best second early. Those old favourites, Sangster’s No. 1 and Bishop’s 
Longpod, were still equal to their reputation, none of the newer sorts being able to 
supersede them quite. Amongst the main crop sorts, the most strikingly handsome, 
productive, and well-flavoured varieties were Turner's Dr. Maclean, Laxton’s 
Supreme, British Queen, and Ne Plus Ultra. These eight varieties are enough 
for any garden. The following were also good, Auvergne, New Sword, Ringwood 
Marrow, Princess Royal, and James's Prolific. 
