312 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
purposes ; whereas many of them might have been sold for from ten 
to forty shillings each. 
I begin early in the season, and continue till the spring, as I 
lift many hundreds every season; but I begin with the ripest first, 
generally cherries, always choosing the mildest, but especially 
moderately dry weather (I find the trees suffer if lifted in very wet 
weather), and in filling-in, I never tread down the soil, and rarely 
have one blow over, not more than one in eighty or ninety. 
T begin on very young trees, say the second year after planting, 
and I generally plant maiden, or sometimes two-year old trees; and 
if we begin so early, there are no large roots taking a perpendicular 
direction. Great care is taken in pruning the roots while the tree is 
on its side and laying them carefully in, keeping them as directly out 
from the tree as possible, so as eventually to form a circle, and the 
soil is carefully worked over and levelled with a fork. The depth of 
the hole must be regulated as well as the width by the size or height 
of the tree; but none of the roots, even of large trees, are above 
fifteen or sixteen inches deep, and of those which have been com- 
menced with young (although they may now be large) not more 
than about ten or twelve inches. They do not require any support 
in any one season to prevent their getting blown over—a circum- 
stance which I consider of great importance. If trees are begun 
with when young, and lifted carefully, they soon have an abundance 
of roots, and their lifting is very little check to them, except in 
making wood, and even this can be regulated at pleasure. 
I perhaps ought to say that I find quince and paradise-stocks 
lift quite as well as crab or pear, but itis not so with Cerasus mahaleb. 
This I do not find lift at all well in any soil. After the trees get 
large, every bruise or scratch in the roots becomes attacked by a 
fengus, which always produces bad health, and frequently death. 
If it is necessary to lift a large tree which has not beeu previously 
lifted, a somewhat wider circle must be taken, and perhaps one-third 
of the roots, or nearly so, be left undisturbed. The turning over will 
be a little difficult, but not so much so if the soil is cleared some 
little distance further on that side, so as to allow the roots more 
space to bend; and as the roots will most likely be grown very 
irregular, to keep them properly spread and in their places, it will be 
best to have some strong fork pegs, well pointed, and inserted with a 
small iron bar, and afterwards driven firmly in with a wooden mallet. 
These will not only keep the roots in their places, but will help to 
secure the tree from blowing over. Butin addition to these, very 
large trees will require some other support to keep them quite safe. 
I use long forked poles, about three or four of which are inserted at 
angles ; but of course, none will be needed on the opposite side to 
that on which the roots are left. But as these would look very 
unsightly on a lawn or any conspicuous place, tar-ropes may be 
fastened, say, at two-thirds the height of the tree, previously 
placing a good bandage round it to save it from being wounded. 
The ropes will, of course, be fastened at angles to sufficiently strong 
pegs, and by means of such ropes, the trees may be far more easily 
lowered, and raised upright again. 
