THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 331 
PROPAGATION OF ROSES FROM AUTUMN CUTTINGS. 
BY AN AMATEUR EXHIBITOR. 
z= HH immense guperiority of own-root roses over those 
fi, budded upon the brier and manetti, was pointed out in 
v4 the last issue of the Froran Wortp; and in giving a 
am | few directions for the multiplication of roses by means 
of autumn cuttings it is not needful to again refer to that 
point. These remarks will, therefore, be strictly confined to matters 
of detail. 
In the propagation of roses from autumn cuttings, it must be 
borne in mind that as the cuttings will be inserted in the open 
borders, and be fully exposed to the weather during the winter, they 
must be of a substantial character. Small shoots consisting of two 
or three buds, such as may be struck during the summer with the 
aid of frames and hand glasses, are quite worthless. The first sharp 
frost after their insertion would loosen them so that, even if the 
worms did not drag them out of the ground, they would certainly 
not strike. The shoots selected for propagating purposes at this 
season of the year must be moderately stout, and the cuttings when 
prepared should range from six to nine inches in length. 
In taking the shoots it is a capital rule to cut them off about six 
inches from the base, and then by the removal of from three to four 
inches of the soft wood at the point, and all but the two upper leaves, 
they will be ready for insertion in the prepared border. Cutting 
them close under the lower joint is, in some respects, preferable, 
but it is not of so much importance, as in the case of the cuttings 
of many other plants, and if the shoots are less than six inches long, 
when the tops have been taken off, it is not desirable to reduce their 
length by the removal of two inches or so of wood from the base. 
The best shoots for cuttings are those which have not flowered, and 
range in length from eighteen to twenty-four inches, and, as far as 
they can be obtained, must be selected in preference to all others. 
A sheltered position should: be set apart for the cutting bed, a 
border at the foot of a wall being preferable. And as it is not of 
much consequence whether it has a south, west, or east aspect, there 
will not be much difficulty, in the majority of gardens, in allotting a 
portion of a border at the foot of a wall to the purpose. 
The preparation of the soil is not by any means a big task, as a 
very few words will suffice to show. Digging it over to a depth of 
ten or twelve inches will be the first step, and if it is at all close in 
texture, spread over the surface a good layer of river sand or other 
grit previous to the digging, and then well incorporate it with the 
staple. Break the soil up rather fine, and leave the surface fairly 
level, and when inserting the cuttings lay a plank down to prevent 
the soil being trodden into a pasty condition. The simplest way 
will be to put the cuttings in small trenches, cut neatly to a depth 
of three or four inches, according to the average length of the cuttings. 
As each trench is opened put the cuttings in an upright position, 
November. 
