THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. ool 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
Tacson1a.— Surbiton.—Tacsonias will lose their buds if allowed to suffer from 
dryness at the roots ; also when the soil is kept in a constant state of saturation, 
through the drainage of the pots or borders being in a bad state. Some of the 
Tacsonias are not sufficiently hardy in constitution to be cultivated successfully in 
the greenhouse; and the tender kinds, although they will grow freely and produce 
an abundance of buds, fail to flower satisfactorily. Usually Tacsonia van Volxemia 
bleoms most abundantly in an ordinary greenhouse without receiving especial atten- 
tion. The principal points in the cultivation of Tacsonias are, toyplant in a border 
weli drained, and consisting chiefly of friable loam, and to supply liberally with 
water during the growing season, without at any time overdoing it. 
Porrinc-orr Rosz Currincs.—l. H. W., Brighton.—The cuttings, if nicely 
rooted, should, early in November, be lifted carefully and put singly in small pots, 
Small and large sixties are the two most useful sizes for the cuttings, and a mixture 
consisting of loam, leaf-mould, and gand, should be employed. Use as much care 
as possible to avoid injuring the roots, and press the soil rather firm, After the 
potting is completed, place a layer of cocoanut-fibre refuse, or sifted coal ashes, in 
the frame, ard plunge the pots to the rim in the bed thus formed. The cold frame 
is the best structure in which to winter the stock. If they are not well rooted, 
leave them in the frame until March next, and then pot them off separately. In 
any case cover the glass with dry litter, or some other protecting material, during 
periods of severe frost, to prevent the frost loosening the soil. Leave the carnations 
in the boxes until the end of February or the beginning of March, and then pot 
them off separately, or plant in the open beds as may appear the most desirable 
to you. 
“oer Vines For Harty Forcinc.—Amateur.—As you have not had much ex- 
perience in the forcing of grapes, we cannot recommend you to start the vines before 
the first week in January. In the meanwhile, keep them safe from frost, and 
rather cool, and maintaiu the soil in a moderately moist condition. They must be 
pruned also without delay, to afford time for the wounds to become healed over 
before the active circulation of the sap commences. In preparing the vines, wash 
the rods with clear water or a solution of Gishurst Compound, prepared by mixing 
four ounces of the compound with a gallon of hot water. The mixture can be 
applied cold, or of a moderate degree of warmth—say not exceeding 80 degrees. 
Loosen the soil on the surface, then take away as much of the old soil as can be re- 
moved without disturbing the roots, and replace with a mixture consisting of equal 
parts turfy loam and horse droppings, or old hotbed manure. If it is practicable to 
make up a bed of leaves or other fermenting materials in the house, do so, and partly 
plunge the pots in it, toinduce the roots torun freely ; and to ensure the buds break- 
ing regularly and of an equal degree of strength down to within two feet or so of the 
surface of the soil, train the canes horizontally, and allow them to remain in this 
direction until the shoots are about two inches in length. They must then be 
trained up the roof, and to prevent injury to the tender shoots, exercise a little more 
than the usual degree of care in doing this. lt is not needful to bring that 
portion of the cane within two feet of the surface down, because it is not neces- 
sary to encourage the buds so low down to push. Start with a temperature of 
55 degrees, and a moist atmosphere, and increase the temperature according to the 
progress made. As a rule, it is desirable to increase the temperature by five degrees 
every second week until the day temperature is 70 degrees with fire-heat alone, 
and the night temperature 65 degrees. 
Cametiias.—Lady Subscriber.—The plants must receive at this season of the 
year, moderate supplies of water, and when it is considered necessary to water them, 
give sufficient to thoroughly moisten the soil. The forcing of camellias should not 
be attempted by amateurs, for unless they are most skilfully handled, the greater 
proportion of the buds will drop prematurely. If you determine upon forcing a 
portion of your plants, place them first of all in a temperature of 50°, and in three 
weeks increase the temperature to 55°, and at the end of a second period of equal 
length increase the heat to 60°. A fewdegrees more or less, are of no great import- 
ance, but 65° ought not to be exceeded until the end of February when, as is well 
known, Camellias bloom freely in the greenhouse. 
SxaKxate.—R, B. M.—You can obtain early supplies of this delicions vegetable 
by simply lifting the roots and taking them to a cellar or greenhouse, but of course 
Novemb>r, 
