THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



81 



has just started near the base of the cutting, so as to leave a suffi- 

 cient length of clear stem to insert the cutting m sand firmly. 

 When so inserted, and kept moist, warm, and shaded, roots will soon 

 be formed at the base ; and as soon as the roots have begun to run 

 in search of nourishment, the top of the shoot will begin to grow, 

 which is the sign for potting off. But suppose we have a chrysan- 

 themum instead of a fuchsia. This will have a mass of tender shoots 

 rising from the root, and there is no need to take any of these oil 

 with a heel. "With a knife, 

 a pair of scissors, or the 

 thumb-nail, remove a small 

 shoot of not more than 

 three or four inches in 

 length — two inches will be 

 sufficient. This will pro- 

 bably have some such 

 aspect as in the figure. 

 All the preparation this 

 requires is the removal of 

 the lower leaf, to make a 

 sufficient length of clear 

 stem for inserting it in 

 silver- sand. Or suppose 

 we have instead a hard- 

 wooded plant of robust 

 growth, and which is 

 known to be easily rooted, 

 then we may venture to 

 take a still larger cutting. 

 The figure on p. 82 is a 

 side-shoot of Veronica 

 Lindleyana; it consists of 

 four joints, is young, the 

 wood not yet hardened, 

 and needs no preparation at all, because there is a proper length ot 

 stem for its insertion. In the case of plants having large fleshy 

 leaves, it may sometimes be needful to crop off half of every leaf 

 except those near the top bud ; but, as a rule, as mauy leaves should 

 be allowed to remain as possible, because the more leaves that can 

 be kept alive while the cutting is making roots, the quicker will it 

 become a plant. No definite rule can be given on this head to guide 

 the inexperienced. It all depends upon how many leaves can be 

 kept alive. If the cuttings are to enjoy a brisk heat, say 70°, with 

 plenty of atmospheric moisture, then nearly all the leaves may be 

 left entire, and especially if the cuttings are in a close propagating 

 frame, or under bell-glasses. But if they are likely to be exposed to 

 draughts, if they are placed in pots or pans in an ordinary green- 

 house, and, therefore, subjected to evaporation, the leaves must be 

 reduced in number, and all the larger ones must be cut half away. 



Another matter of importance in making cuttings is to determine 

 whether they are to be rooted from a joint or not. Most cultivators 



G 



Much. 



CUTTING OF CHEYSANTHEMTTir. 



