188 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



moisture, the growth will be more luxuriant and healthy. As soon 

 as the foliage is well expanded, and the bloom-buds begin to show 

 at the points of the shoots, give more air and less water ; and at the 

 end of June, or early in July, turn them out under a north wall on 

 to a bed of coal-ashes, to ripen the wood. A moderate amount of 

 sun will be good for them from this time to the end of the season, 

 but it should not reach them after eleven in the morning, or before 

 four in the afternoon. If the pots are half plunged, they will require 

 less attention in watering, but will still be benefited by an occasional 

 syringing to keep the foliage clean and healthy, and must still be 

 kept moderately moist at the root. 



Repotting. — This is usually performed at the time they are 

 turned out to ripen the seasonal growth. As a rule, Camellias do 

 not like to be disturbed at the root, and when well potted in the 

 first instance, may remain in the same pots for several years in suc- 

 cession if regularly refreshed with top-dressings. Plants that are 

 not doing well should be repotted, in order to excite fresh root 

 action, and the increase in the size of the plants will also reader 

 increased root room necessary. As we do not expect to shift ^hem 

 frequently, as we do soft- wooded plants, and as excess of pot-room is 

 an injury, the potting should be performed with care. The Camellia 

 likes a deep, rich soil, and if potted with the abundance of drainage 

 material generally used for Ericas and Epacrises, will never thrive. 

 Young plants, indeed, soon get poor if their roots ramble among 

 potsherds, which are the delight of most heaths : and the drainage 

 should be made sure, with as few crocks as possible. The chief 

 points to be observed in potting Camellias are, to use the compost 

 very rough and lumpy ; to pot them as firm as possible ; to give 

 them very small shifts, for unless they quickly fill the pots with 

 roots, the soil will get sour and water-logged, and it will be impos- 

 sible for the plants to prosper ; and never to shift at all unless you 

 are sure they require it. Choose new pots of one size larger than 

 those the plants are to be removed from. Soak them in water 

 a few hours, and meanwhile prepare some clean crocks and nodules 

 of charcoal of the size of hazel nuts. Put over the hole in the pot a 

 good-sized concave piece of tile, or if the pots are large use the 

 smallest sized unglazed flower-pot saucers inverted, as a foundation. 

 Over this strew a few crocks, then a layer of charcoal, and then 

 some lumps of very fibrous peat, or tough turf that has been stacked 

 some time. Turn out the plants without breaking the balls, and 

 examine them well to see if the roots are healthy. Beyond removing 

 the old crocks, you will seldom find it necessary to disturb the root 

 in any way ; but if the ball is hard, and become impervious to water, 

 slightly loosen it round the sides with a sharp stick, and remove 

 some of the old soil by lowering the ball into a pail of water, and 

 moving it up and down gently till some of it has fallen out. Having 

 got them into the new pots, ram the compost in all round as hard as 

 you can with a thin wooden rammer, but be careful in doing so not 

 to bruise the roots. By this firm system of potting an immense 

 quantity of soil can be got into the pots for the roots to feed upon, 

 and two or three years may elapse before the plants will want shifting 



