228 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



growers, though care must be taken not to select for a stock one as 

 celebrated for vigour as the scion is for want of it, or your labour will 

 be in vain. As a stock for the smaller-growing Echinocacti, Gereus 

 tortuosus, or colubrinus, are the best ; for the larger, G. peruvianas and 

 gemniahis. In grafting, care must be taken to cut the two ends 

 rather convex than concave, as they are apt to shrink a little, which 

 would cause a separation, and so spoil the graft ; the scion must be 

 tied firmly to the stock, taking care that the edges meet, or at least 

 one of them. The best plan to insure against accidents is to put 

 three sticks into the pot, and tie them together above the plant, 

 thus causing a continual pressure from above. In grafting Opuntia 

 clavrioides, you may cut a cuneiform notch in the stock, and cut the 

 scion to fit tightly ; keep them firm with a stick on each side, and a 

 thorn run through the graft. Some of the smaller species of Cereus, 

 as C. tuberosa, may be made pointed, with a corresponding hole in 

 the stock — in all cases taking care not to disturb the plant when 

 once grafted. When the operation is finished, the plant must be 

 put into a close frame, or the shadiest part of the house, until it is 

 out of danger. Epiphyllums are generally grafted, but not neces- 

 sarily. The common stock used is Pereskia grandifolia and Blea, 

 but Gereus speciossimus and triangularis make very good stocks, 

 these plants being stouter, and more in proportion to the scion, 

 though Pereskia stocks are more to be depended upon than Cereus. 

 Cuttings of Pereskias intended for stocks should be put in in spring, 

 selecting the young straight shoots of the previous season, about six 

 inches long, or according to faucy. About September is the best 

 season for grafting Epiphyllums. The scion should consist of one 

 or two joints ; cut the outer bark off about one inch on each side of 

 the scion, split the stock about the same length, put the scion in, 

 and tie or pin it with a thorn, according to which stock you use ; 

 the plants must then be put into a close frame, and laid on their 

 sides until united, which they will do in about six weeks, when they 

 may be stood upright, and gradually hardened off. Most of the 

 species may be raised from seed, which should be sown as soon as 

 collected, if possible, and put into a temperature of 60°. The young 

 plants grow very slowly at first. When potted off they should be 

 placed near the light. It is best to let them remain in the seed-pot 

 until the following season, as they are very apt to damp if they are 

 potted off too soon. Seed collected abroad should be left in the 

 pulp, which, being its natural protector, prevents the air acting on 

 it, and drying it up. Packed in a small tin box, it may be sent any 

 distance without losing its vitality. The best flowering varieties are 

 Cereus speciossimus, and its varieties, as G. Ackerinanni, Jenhinsoni, 

 splenclens, and others ; these are the forms most commonly grown in 

 cottage windows. The genera Phyllocactus and Cereus produce 

 many fine-flowering varieties. 



Hybridization. — This may be performed by any person, as the 

 stamen and pistils are so very distinct, and the pollen produced in 

 abundance — which may be preserved for some time, if kept in a 

 bottle hermetically sealed. I have not met with any successful 

 attempt to cross Mammillaria with Eehinocactus, or Opuntia with 



