THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 51 



that can be recommended, is to prune those planted inside the house 

 to the first or second bud above the surface of the soil, and those 

 planted outside, to the second bud, from the point of their entering 

 the house. When they commence to grow, select the most promising 

 shoot on each vine, and rub all the others off, and train up the one 

 remaining in its proper position. The utmost care must be taken to 

 guard the remaining shoots from injury, because, if they are damaged 

 in any way, there will be a considerable loss of time. The pruning 

 must be done at once, to afford time for the wound to heal over 

 before the sap begins to move freely. No fii-e-heat will be required 

 for the first season, as the sun-heat will, if carefully husbanded, 

 afford sufficient warmth to insure a vigorous growth from the first. 

 To secure a stout base to the rod, stop it when it has reached about 

 half-way up the rafter, and then train the shoot, which will push 

 from the topmost bud, to take the lead again. The laterals, which 

 push lower down, should be stopped when about twelve inches in 

 length, with the exception of the smaller ones that do not appear 

 likely to exceed fifteen inches, as a somewhat free development of 

 the laterals will be of material assistance in increasing the thickness 

 of the lower part of the rod. The cane will require stopping again 

 when it reaches the top of the rafter ; and the laterals, which push 

 from the second section, will require regulating in a similar manner 

 to those on the lower part. As the border will not be very full of 

 roots, moderate supplies of water will suffice to maintain the vines in a 

 flourishing state ; they must not, under any consideration, be allowed 

 to suffer from dryness at the roots, for if this happens, the growth 

 will be weak, and the foliage quickly become infested witli red spider. 

 A moderate degree of atmospheric humidity will be most favourable to 

 the production of stout rods, and, therefore, when the house is closed 

 in the afternoon, the vines and the walls should be syringed, and 

 the floor and walls sprinkled somewhat liberally. The syringing 

 must be followed up from the time the vines begin to grow until 

 the canes reach the top of ttie rafter and begin to assume a brownish 

 hue, when it must be discontinued. After a cold, dull day, sprink- 

 ling the floor will suffice ; and it^will perhaps be useful to intimate 

 that, if the syringe is plied vigorously in cold, sunless weather, and 

 no fire-heat employed, the speedy development of mildew will be 

 the result, and do much mischief to the vines. The vinery will 

 require ventilating rather liberally, and to guard against the foliage 

 being scorched, admit a little air just before the sun begins to shine 

 upon the roof, and increase the ventilation as the sun acquires 

 power. By opening the ventilators early, the foliage has a better 

 chance of becoming dry before the sun can act upon it. In warm, 

 genial weather, the ventilation must be abundant, especially towards 

 the end of the summer, when the growth of the canes will be nearly 

 completed. In the early part of the season, especially during the 

 months of March and April, the admission of air must be regulated 

 with care, to prevent cold currents injuring tlie tender foliage. After 

 the canes have attained their full size, the vinery should be left open 

 night and day, and continue open until Christmas, excepting during 

 a severe frost. 



February. 



