190 MISCELLANY OF NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE. 



Since the time that Mr. Barnes, of Bicton, made known his application of it in 

 such successful plant culture, I have adopted it, and with a most astonishing 

 improvement upon my plants. I find, however, it is the more useful when a 

 very free bottom drainage is prepared. 



On Compost for Pelargoniums. — A Constant Subscriber will be obliged by a 

 little information on the subject of growing Pelargoniums. What is the best 

 soil and dung to pot in, and what is the best liquid to promote a vigorous bloom. 

 1 want to grow them in a cottage for exhibiting at the Moral shows. 



D. Saxon. 



The following modes of treatment are what two of the first-rate growers for 

 showing gave us, and they will give D. S., as well as others, useful information 

 for growing the plants in any situation which circumstances admit : — 



''The cuttings are placed in an open border, about the middle of July, and the 

 situation selected is one fully exposed to the mid-day sun. In about six weeks 

 they are rooted, and then putted into 60-sized pots. The pots are placed in a 

 shady situation, on boards or slates, and in three weeks removed to a more ex- 

 posed and airv situation, when the wood becomes hard. They remain here till 

 nearly the end of September, when they are taken into the house for the winter. 

 At this time the plants ate stopped at the third or fourth joint, and they are at the 

 same time shifted into 48-sized pots. The soil is a turfy loam and sand. Alter 

 this shifting, but little air is given for about eight or ten days ; but after this 

 time as much a.r is again allowed as the state of the weather will admit till 

 about the begining of December, when the pots will be well tilled with roots, 

 and require to be again temoved into 32 sized pots Bone dust is added, but 

 with caution; and never near thu surface of the soil, because it is of too 

 drying a nature. The plants are again stopped, and the temperature of the 

 house is maintained at about 45 degrees ; at the end often days it is allowed to 

 fall to 42 or 40. The flues are damped two or three times every night, to keep 

 the air of the house moist, allowing top air when the weather is favourable. 

 About the middle of February, the plants intended for large specimens are 

 again shifted into 42-sized pots : and the vigorous sized kimls require a size 

 larger. At this time each shoot is tied separately to a proper slake. Fiies are 

 discontinued about the beginning of April, and the plants are syringed over 

 head three times a-week. and the house closed tor the night. This treatment is 

 continued for about a month, the house being damped every evening, and the 

 top s.ishes opened the first thing in the morning, and as much air allowed during 

 the day as can be given with safety. When the plants show bloom they are 

 freely watered and shaded with canvas. At the time of housing the plants, the 

 dead leaves are carefully removed, and when the green fly makes iis appearance, 

 a fumigation of tobacco is used, care being taken that the plants are in a dry 

 state at the time; they must be well watered over head in a day or two after- 

 wards. When the flowering season is over, the plants are removed to an exposed 

 situation for a fortnight, till the wood is hard, when they are cut down. Those 

 plants intended as specimens the second year after heading down, are placed in a 

 sheltered situation, where little water is given, and when the shoots are an inch 

 long, they are shaken out of the pots and planted in others two sizes smaller ; 

 by this treatment they are kept more healthy during winter. When thus potted, 

 they are placed on a stage in a shady situation, and lemoved to the house " at 

 the proper time," and treated during the winter as already described. The 

 plants intended for exhibition are occasionally watered with liquid manure or 

 guano, and syringing overhead is discontinued. Gauze blinds are used, by which 

 bees are prevented entering the houseto injure the bloom, and are on no account 

 allowed to flair, by exposure to the sun, or for want of water. It is especially 

 recommended to commence the training of the plants at an early period of their 

 growth, while the shoots aie young and pliable. By early training, the shoots 

 acquit e the desired form, and fewer stakes are therefore required. The flowers 

 are arranged so that there is an equal distribution of blooms over the head of 

 the plant; to effect this, small willow twigs are used. Practice alone can 

 teach the art of preparing flowers for exhibition. The less art is used the better, 



