210 ON BLOOMING CAMELLIAS FOR A LENGTHENED TERIOD. 



of June. I have two dozen in bloom at each time. The soil I pot 

 in is one part turfy heath, two parts of rich turfy loam, to which I 

 add another equal part consisting of a portion of sharp sand, bone 

 dust, and charcoal in small bits about the size of a field bean, and a 

 similar quantity of well-rotted hotbed dung. These being incorpo- 

 rated well together, chopped not sifted, for four months before using, 

 make a compost for the plants I have never seen equalled elsewhere. 

 In potting I use a free drainage of turf cut into pieces the size of an 

 Orleans plum, over which I place an inch of moss, and when put- 

 ting in the compost in potting, I drop in a few pieces of gritty stone, 

 in order to absorb any overplus of water. When I pot I take care 

 to have the soil moderately dry, and in filling it in round the ball to 

 do it in regular layers, pressing it rather firm so that no space be left. 

 Many cultivators advise repotting just before the plants begin to 

 grow. I think this plan better adapted for nurserymen, and those 

 whose only object is to make wood. The production of blossoms is 

 another thing ; and in the case of luxuriant plants, this can only be 

 done by a temporary check of some kind, the best of which is, in my 

 opinion, limiting the supply of water at the root, and not calling a 

 new series of fibres into play until the blossom-buds are decidedly 

 formed. I repot Camellias 60011 after they have made their young- 

 growth — as soon as the young leaves are perfectly developed, and the 

 end of the young wood at the point of junction with the wood of the 

 former year begins to turn a little brown. The ball of the plant 

 should be rather moist at shifting ; and when it is in a pot-bound 

 state, it should be immersed in tepid water for an hour, about three 

 days previous, allowing a day or two for the superfluous water to 

 drain away before potting : I place the ball immediately on the 

 moss. 



The thermometer is kept during the season of growth from 60° to 

 65° by day, and 50° to 55° by night. The treatment is now of a 

 close and moist character, giving air in moderation and with caution 

 every morning, from ten o'clock until noon, and then, unless very hot 

 weather, shutting close up. A little fire-heat is given every morning, 

 from seven o'clock until eleven, when it is taken away until four 

 o'clock, and then applied for the evening. 



When the young shoots become firm, the temperature is raised from 

 65 c to 70 by day, and from 53 to 60" by night, and accompanied with a 



