1G on The culture of pelargoniums. 



it, indeed, peculiarly successful with recently-imported bulbs of 

 Sprekelia formosissima. 



In conclusion, I would suggest the interest that might arise from 

 the institution of a series of experimental researches in detail upon 

 the relative progress and ultimate development of two Hyacinths, the 

 one blown in the water-glass, and the other by the system of deep 

 plunging. It would, at any rate, be difficult to conceive conditions 

 more opposite to each other, either in a physiological or a floricultural 

 point of view. 



Tangier House, Taunton, November 25, 1843. 



ARTICLE VI. 



ON THE CULTURE OF PELARGONIUMS. 



BY C. C. 



I here forward a few remarks on the culture of Pelargoniums, which, 

 if followed out, cannot fail of the most complete success. The plan 

 is this. The latter part of May is the best time to strike the'cuttings. 

 One great reason that there are so many disappointments in obtain- 

 ing a fine bloom is owing to the cuttings being struck late in the 

 season, so that there is no time for hardening the plants before winter 

 arrives. The consequence is, the plants are weak and sickly till late 

 in the following season, and the blooms are few and small. Suppose 

 the cuttings to have been struck at the time I recommend, about the 

 latter part of June they will require potting off: after this they may 

 be kept in a cool frame for about a fortnight, and then gradually 

 exposed to the full air ; they should then be placed on a dry bottom, 

 so that the roots may be prevented from running down into the ground. 

 They should be placed, too, so that they may be screened from the 

 violent heat of the sun for about three or four hours in the middle of 

 the day. They may remain in this situation till the beginning of 

 September, when they must be repotted. This must be carefully 

 attended to. Then place them in a cool frame ; they must have the 

 full air all day, and place triggers under the sashes at night. The 

 sashes overhead will prevent slight frosts from injuring them. At 

 this potting most of them will have made very strong shoots ; they, 

 therefore, must be shortened to about three eyes ; this will induce 

 them to throw out several very strong shoots, about two inches long, 



