164 ON BUDDING AND GRAFTING THE RHODODENDRON, ETC. 



taken off each; by using a thin-backed, broad-bladed, sharp knife ; 

 and by drawing the hand straight without twisting when making the 

 cut. The graft and stock must be hard pressed together, without 

 shifting, in the tying; which is best done by a smart hitch or pull, 

 every time the wet bast ligature passes the graft in the act of tying, 

 and not by continued pulling. The above remarks apply chiefly to 

 whip grafting, which is the most common. Crown-grafting is that 

 most practised for old trees ; and the necessity to take off the grafts, 

 and allow the stock to push, is here absolute, as the operation cannot 

 be performed properly till the bark rises freely from the stock. When 

 the bark rises freely, success is very certain in this way, if the grafts 

 are strong and not sprung ; as the flow of sap causes union to take 

 place speedily, and the strong bark keeps the graft in its place. If 

 the bark and wood of the stock do not separate freely, it is in vain to 

 attempt grafting in this way. Grafting soft evergreens, as Rhodo- 

 dendrons, Daphnes, &c, is best done by waiting till growth has fairly 

 commenced, either the first, pushing in spring, or the second, in 

 summer, and inserting the graft in the manner of a bud, by opening 

 the bark of the stock. The grafts of these must not be taken off till 

 needed, as they are not dormant like deciduous grafts, and more apt 

 to perish. The bark will not rise till growth has fairly commenced, 

 and dull, cloudy, moist, warm weather suits best, if dry and sunny, 

 they should be shaded. With evergreens a few leaves are left on the 

 top of the stock to draw up the sap, and to carry on the growth; it 

 is useful in the grafting of all soft evergreens. 



Increase by layers is often adopted with Evergreens, and is gene- 

 rally successful where circumstances admit of it. Take care to 

 tongue the layer close under a side bud, and keep the tongue quite 

 open, and the part above the tongue to be made as perpendicular as 

 possible, the two being at right angles, which causes the sap to accu- 

 mulate, and so form a swelling of cellular matter at the bottom of the 

 tongue, from which the roots proceed. A little fine sand put round 

 the cut prevents the wound corroding in heavy soils, and by press- 

 ing on the bark, as in cuttings, promotes the rooting. The layer 

 must be kept steady by a peg, but where the shoot is long and likely 

 to be shaken by wind, &c, that must have a support to be tied to. 



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