TREATMENT OF THE PINK. 183 



into the mould with a small fork between each plant : in the beginning 

 of May they will spindle up for bloom, I then take off all the side shoots 

 that show for bloom, not leaving more than two of the main stems to 

 bloom, and in many cases not more than one, and also all the side 

 shoots that show for bloom, leaving only the main pod to bloom : 

 about the latter end of the month many of the pods will begin to 

 open, care must then be taken to keep the pods from bursting, to prevent 

 which, they should be tied with a piece of soft bass matting round 

 the middle of the pod in a tight knot ; and should they be inclined to 

 run down on one side, they should be eased on the opposite side down 

 to the bass, which will give freedom to the petals to expand equally; 

 and when they begin to drop their guard leaves, cards should be 

 placed on them, laying the guard leaves even and round to allow the 

 others to fall in regular succession, then the shade should be placed 

 over them from the sun." 



The following mode of treatment is given us by one of the most 

 successful northern florists : — 



" The compost of the beds should be composed of fresh loamy soil, 

 mixed with an equal proportion of cow-dung, which should be two 

 years old. These materials must be well incorporated together by 

 frequent digging. The beds in which blooming plants are to be 

 grown, should be some little higher than the surrounding surface, and 

 the surface of the bed must be formed so as to have it convex, in 

 order to throw off any excess of wet, which, if not guarded against, 

 would be particularly injurious. 



" I plant off my pinks for blooming in September, for pinks trans- 

 planted in spring never do well, nor show half the beauty which 

 those do that are planted in September; the laced pinks, in particular, 

 appear almost plain, without their distinguishing character. In order 

 to have strong vigorous blossoms, I raise fresh plants from pipings 

 every season, as they bloom the best when one year old. 



" I have often noticed in the plan of striking pipings which is 

 generally adopted, a very great failure to attend the practice ; in 

 numerous cases not more than one in twenty strike root. The usual 

 method is to make a slight hotbed, and cover it either with a frame 

 or hand-glass ; the pipings being inserted, are accommodated with 

 dung-bed heat; this is quite opposed to their striking, for at this 

 period it is indispensably necessary to a successful striking that they 



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