BRIEF REMARKS. 187 



be saved. Cutfings may then be obtained from thinnings of the young 

 shoots on established plants, or, better still, an old plant stopped in the 

 autumn should be left on purpose. It will stand comparatively hard 

 treatment during- the winter, but in February or March it sliould be put 

 gradually into a moist atmosphere, and a temperature of from 45^ to 

 55', or a few degrees more. As soon as the young shoots are from one 

 and a-half to three inches in length they should be taken off close to 

 the stem and properly treated, the strongest would bloom in the open 

 air in summer if desirable ; if potted, stopped, and re-potted in August 

 they would make nice little flowering plants during tiie winter, if a 

 temperature not less than 45 is then given them with fresh air. Similar 

 plants, having their flower-buds removed, the points of the shoots 

 pinched out, the shoots themselves trained into the desired shape, and 

 re-potted in September, will make nice flowering plants in spring and 

 summer. For the end of summer and autumn others should be re- 

 potted in March and April. 



Soil, and a few matters essential to success in propaguiinij. — The 

 soil should be light and sandy, free from worms and insects ; one part 

 peat, one part leaf-mould, one half part loam, one part pure sand, will 

 answer admirably, with just an additional dusting of silver sand upon 

 the surface, such a compost will neither be too close nor too open. If 

 mere soil, &c., were present, the air would obtain too free an access to 

 the base of the cutting when the compost became dry, and then the 

 opposite evil would ensue from the moisture remaining too long around 

 the cutting after watering, causing it to mould and decay. A similar 

 efl^ect would be produced by inserting cuttings, as some do wholly in 

 sand ; enough of air then would not be admitted, and thus a shan king- 

 off" would be liable to ensue, for the circumstances that would ensure 

 the safety of a hard-wooded cutting would ruin a soft-wooded geranium. 

 Then if the cuttings are inserted into pots, these pots should be half 

 filled with drainage, and the remaining portion with different layers of 

 the prepared compost, reserving the finest for the surface. Before 

 inserting the cuttings the pots should have been previously well watered, 

 and the moisture allowed to drain aw-ay, as most of the waterings after- 

 wards had better consist of sprinklings from the syringe. In eai'ly 

 autumn, wlien the weather is still warm and the sun's rays powerful, 

 little or nothing in the shape of bottom-heat will be required, but the 

 cuttings should be placed at such a distance from the glass that they 

 may enjoy the direct, though diffused, rays of light; this will prevent 

 the necessity of shading much to prevent flagging. The more direct 

 though somewhat diffused light they will stand, the sooner will roots be 

 protruded, and the more sturdy and healthy will the plants become. 

 Of course they would require to be placed nearer the glass as the power 

 of the sun declines. Every liour's shading, however necessary it be at 

 times, is just so far encouraging the mere expansion upwards of what is 

 contained in the cutting, without doing much for encouraging the pro- 

 trusion of roots. In sunny weather they will require to be kept close, 

 and receive frequent sprinklings from the syringe, to lessen their powers 

 of evaporating their juices, but at night and morning air may be given, 

 and the sashes at times wholly removed. When propagating in spring 



