216 FLOHAL OrEEATIONS FOR THE MONTH. 



they appear, and securing sncli as are left against being broken by 

 wind. Lighten up tlie soil around the plants with a fork, carefully 

 avoiding injury to the young fibres. Towards the middle of the month 

 add a layer, one or two inches deep, of cow-dung around the plants, 

 avoiding such application, however, to all those with large or coarse 

 flowers. Tulijys, off-sets should be planted towards the end of the 

 month. The bed should therefore be prepared, and consist of river- 

 sand and fresh loam in equal portions ; plant the young bulbs from two 

 to three inches deep, and let the surface of the bed gently slope from 

 the middle. Hollyhocks, where increase is desired, as soon as the 

 flowers fade, the stems should be cut down, and the surrounding surface 

 of the soil stirred up, adding thereon a little well-decayed manure ; 

 this will induce them to shoot up vigorously, and afford a numerous 

 division. Or they may be increased by cuttings. — See Articles in last 

 Volume. Pelargoniums, if the plants cut down last month are not 

 already potted, they should be done at once ; some of the cuttings, too, 

 which were potted early, may require another shift. Seed should be 

 sown in pots of light rich soil. Rose budding should be completed as 

 early as possible. Pcmsies, continue to propagate, and save seed from 

 the best varieties, Chri/santhenuims should be re-potted into larger 

 pots for blooming, using a rich soil, and giving an abundant supply of 

 water. 



IN THE GREENHOUSE, COLD FRAME, &c. 



Light is now more than usually important to elaborate and con- 

 solidate the juices before the winter arrives ; for unless every means is 

 taken to accomplish this, we may expect sad failures during the next 

 winter among our tender and more valuable exotics. To protect them 

 from rain and to expose them to light should now more than ever be 

 our earnest study, in regard to choice specimens, especially those which 

 have been recently shifted, and which are in vigorous growth. Almost 

 all the soft-wooded stove-plants that can be grown into large specimens 

 by one or two seasons' growth, like Pelargoniums, may be conveniently 

 treated like that popular tribe ; cut them back after they are done 

 flowering ; keep them dry for a week or ten days, and then shake 

 them out of the mould ; shorten their large roots, and pot them in light 

 rich compost in a small pot as their roots can be got into. Where a 

 laroe conservatory is to be kept gay all the year round, this class of stove- 

 plants is by far the most useful to cultivate, as you can always winter 

 them in little room, whereas fine woody plants will soon get too large 

 and take some years before they are fit to appear in a good conserva- 

 tor}'. Another great advantage is, that as soon as you get these plants 

 established in the new pots, they will only require to be kept in that 

 condition through the winter, and therefore will not require more than 

 50° of heat for three or four months. 



Greenhouses and frames, while they remain empty, should be 

 thoroughly cleansed, repaired, white-washed, and painted. Cleanliness 

 is not only essential to their appearance and preservation but to keep 

 the plants in a healthy condition. It is bad management when these 

 matters are deferred until late in the season, when the plants are again 

 replaced, and almost sure to be injured during the process. 



