BRIEF REMARKS. 65 



Oxalis Bow ei. — It lias been stated that this Oxalis should be pro- 

 tected from frost. I have grown it, at Nettlecombe, for these last 

 sixteen years, without any protection whatever. The bed was pre- 

 pared in the following manner :— The earth was removed to the depth 

 of two feet. I then introduced eight inches of drainage, laying on the 

 top of it a layer of fresh turf, with the view of preventing the soil filling 

 up the interstices. I then filled up the bed with equal parts of well- 

 rotted, turfy loam and leaf-mould, intimately mixed together. In May, 

 I turned out the plants, and placed them so that the bulbs might be 

 three inches below the surface. Thus circumstanced, I have never 

 found them to receive any injury, with the exception of the foliage 

 being destroyed by frost. They flower beautifully every autumn. — 

 Charles Elworthy, Nettlecombe Gardens, Somersetshire. 



Heating. — I had lately occasion to pass through Guildford, where I 

 saw, in Mr. Penn's shop, in High-street, a model of an excellent heat- 

 in^ apparatus for horticultural purposes. It consists of an open tank 

 for bottom heat (or close if required), which sends up a congenial heat, 

 and at the same time warms a range of pipes round the top of the bed. 

 It was heated by means of a jet of gas, and its action was perfect. The 

 amount of fuel required must be trifling, for the boiler was not more 

 than five inches in diameter, and it was set so as to be nearly enveloped 

 by the fire. I understood Mr. Penn to say that he had erected many 

 in the neighbourhood. One gentleman, I know he told me, had three. 

 I had no time, or I should have examined one of them ; but I am 

 so satisfied with the contrivance that I intend to give it a trial.— 

 Charles Phillips, Ealing, Hants. 



Camellias. — These fine plants flourish best in a compost of equal 

 parts of turfy loam and peat, with a sprinkling of sharp sand. The 

 soils not sifted but broken, and a free drainage. To restore sickly 

 plants, early in spring, before they begin to push, turn the plant out of 

 the pot, shake the soil away, prune any diseased roots, and if the top 

 be weak, or straggling, cut back the shoots proportionately, and re-pot 

 in one just large enough to admit the roots conveniently, and use a 

 little more peat than loam in the compost, and a little extra sand. Let 

 the plant be plunged where it can have a little bottom heat, and water 

 sparingly till it begins to grow, and then gradually to increase. 



After Camellias have done blooming, and just before the shoots push, 

 re-pot them, and let them have an increase of warmth and moisture 

 whilst forming new wood, it will be vigorous, and yet well ripened, 

 which is essential to secure a due supply of flower buds. 



To increase Camellias, budding, grafting, and in-arching are adopted, 

 In-arch in spring, just before the shoots push. Bud when the new 

 wood has become firm, and graft the first week in September.— A 

 Practitioner. 



Camellia Flower-Buds Dropping. — " An old subscriber has 

 purchased at a sale two dozen plants, well set. with flower-buds, and 

 now they are dropping oft': what remedy can I use to prevent the 

 disaster continuing?" 



(Probably the plants have only had a little water given that sunk 

 <nly an inch or two deep, and the rest of the ball be quite dry ; or, if 



Vol. xix. No. 51.— A"..'. G 



