114 BRIEF REMARKS. 



po's to bloom in, such as nine to twelve inches across. At each re- 

 potting use a more rich compost by adding well-rotted manure, bits of 

 charcoal, and a free drainage. I have had plants two and a-half feet 

 liio-h from the pot, and as much across, spangled over beauteously with 

 their lovely flowers. — A Nobleman s Flower Gardener. 



Moss on Lawns. — Many complaints have been made relative to the 

 destruction of the grass by an accumulation of moss. To be saved 

 from this annoyance, always begin to mow early in the spring ; that is, 

 as soon as there is anything for the scythe to cut. Attention to this 

 throughout a season will destroy the moss. When the mowing is 

 deferred in spring, the moss destroys \\\zfine grass by covering it, and 

 only the strong coarse grass will survive. Where the moss now pre- 

 vails, rake it up by means of a wood-rake ; after raking, sweep with a 

 stiff besom, and mow as soon as required. I once destroyed the moss 

 on a large lawn by applying a liberal sprinkling of fine-sifted quick- 

 lime, first in November, and again early in March. — A Long Observer. 



Pimelea decussata. — I observe in the April Number a cor- 

 respondent asks for information relative to the propagation of this plant. 

 The following account of a method recommended by Mr. Fish, a clever 

 gardener, with the Pimelea family will, perhaps, be of some use to the 

 inquirer; I, therefore, forward it: — 



" By Cuttings. — If any shoots have missed having flower-heads at 

 their points, these points will proceed to grow as the flower-buds com- 

 mence to expand. In other instances, sometimes young shoots will 

 protrude from behind the flower-heads. In either case an opportunity 

 is afforded for obtaining a few early cuttings in March and April, the 

 advantage of which is that the plants will be struck, potted off, and 

 established in their pots before winter. When these young shoots are 

 from one to two and a-half inches in length, and getting just a little 

 firm at the base, is the best time for taking them off, and inserting them 

 in the cutting-pots. When cuttings cannot be got by either of these 

 means, we must wait until the beauty of the flowers is gone, then cut 

 them all neatly off, give any little pruning that is necessary to regulate 

 shape and outline, as the two-year-old wood will generally break freely 

 enough, and then wait until young shoots are formed, when as many 

 may be thinned out as will be requisite for cuttings. Cuttings from 

 older wood will strike ; but then they require much longer time, are 

 not so certain, and after all seldom give sucli healthy free-growing 

 plants. In preparing the cutting-pots, let them be three-fourths filled 

 with drainage, or place a smaller pot topsy-turvy inside of a larger one, 

 and fill the space between to a similar height with drainage, then strew 

 a little green moss to keep the drainage clear, over that some lumpy 

 fibry peat, over that finer sandy peat, and over all from a quarter to 

 half an inch of pure sand. If below this sand, or even blended with it, 

 unless at the very surface, there is a little fine-pounded clean charcoal, 

 but not mere duust, that being separated by a very fine sieve, the 

 cuttings will strike all the sooner, and be less liable to damp oft'. 

 The pots should be well watered, and allowed to drain before in- 

 serting the cuttings, the making of which consists in removing a few 

 of the lower leaves, and cutting clean across with a sharp knife, and 



