BRIEF REMARKS. 171 



compost of loam and sand, he puts three suckers. He places them in a 

 cold frame to keep them stiff, and never strikes them in heat, as they 

 draw up weakly. In April pots off singly into six-inch pots, in one- 

 third yellow loam, one-third rotten turf, and one-third well-rotted 

 manure, adding - sufficient sand or grit to make the compost porous. 

 Places them in the open air, where they are protected from e;ist winds, 

 rather wide a part, turning them often to prevent the routs extending 

 into t lie soil, and to have the plants of uniform growth. At the end 

 of June, or early in July, gives the last repotting into very large pot--, 

 having plenty of drainage, and the compost in a rough state. Great 

 cure is paid to give them a due proportion of water, never to suffer them 

 to wither, or the blossoms would be deformed, but avoids soddening the 

 soil. The first week in August he begins to supply liquid manure 

 once a-week, increasing its strength as the plant advances, but yivvs up 

 the liquid as soon as the flowers begin to expand. Constant atten'ion 

 in the early stage of the plants is essential to success. He never stops 

 the main stem, and pinches off all side shoots. As soon as the bloom- 

 ing stems become visible he removes all but three or four, and only one 

 flower-bud is allowed to remain on each stem ; prefers the centre bud 

 if it be round and perfect. 



Tuberoses. — The best soil for these is light sandy earth, mixed 

 with one-third part very rotten cow-dung. About the middle of April 

 prepare your bed by clearing it out to the depth of three feet, and fill 

 it nearly to the top with fresh stable dung that has been cast into a 

 heap to heat a fortnight before, treading it firmly. Upon this lay 

 eighteen inches in depth of compost, sloping it to the south. In a day 

 or two after, plant your roots five inches distant from each other, just 

 covering the tubers with earth. Shut up the bed at night, especially if 

 frosty ; or if in the open air cover it with a double mat till the leaves 

 appear ; but give little or no water, and protect it from heavy rains. 

 When the leaves have grown about an inch long, add a little comport 

 to the surface. If the season prove dry, your bed will now require 

 watering, and towards the end of June and in July, when the leaves are 

 in full vigour, very copiously ; from this period to the beginning of 

 winter nothing more is necessary. About the first week in December, 

 thatch the bed over with dry straw, if in the open air; and about the 

 middle of February, if not prevented by frost, take up the roots, pre- 

 serving the fibres, and pack them in very dry sand in cellars till April, 

 when they must be replanted as before. The taking up disposes them 

 to form their flower stems earlier. Offsets will by this time have made 

 their appearance round each root, and must be removed. This second 

 year some of the largest roots will probably flower, and if early, they 

 may be allowed to blossom in the open air; but if later than July, they 

 should be potted and placed under glass. Such is an outline of the 

 Mineral munageoieut of Tuberoses in the open air, or in a fnme. — 

 Gardeners' CJwswicle. 



Canttjab. — It appears there has existed some confusion relative to 

 the proper names of the plants known in this country as C. depen lens, 

 buxifolia, and bicolor. Messrs. Veitch, of Exeter, introduced from 

 their collector in Peru the plant they are now selling under the name 



