216 FLORAL OPERATIONS FOB THE MONTH. 



as soon as they have attained sufficient size. Dahlias : continued care 

 will be necessary in thinning out laterals as they appear, and securing 

 such as are left against being broken by wind. Lighten up the soil 

 around the plants with a fork, carefully avoiding injury to the young 

 fibres. Towards [the middle of the month add a layer, one or two 

 inches deep, of cow-dung around the plants; avoiding such application, 

 however, to all those with large or coarse flowers. Tulips : off-sets 

 should be planted towards the end of the month. The bed should, 

 therefore, be prepared, and consist of river-sand and fresh loam in equal 

 portions ; plant the young bulbs from two to three inches deep, and let 

 the surface of the bed gently slope from the middle. Hollyhocks: 

 where increase is desired, as soon as the flowers fade, the stems should 

 be cut down, and the surrounding surface of the soil stirred up, adding 

 thereon a little well-decayed manure ; this will induce them to shoot 

 up vigorously, and afford a numerous division ; or they may be in- 

 creased by cuttings. See articles in last volume. Pelargoniums : if 

 the plants cut down last month are not already potted, they should be 

 done at once ; some of the cuttings, too, which were potted early, may 

 require another shift. Seed should be sown in pots of light rich soil. 

 Rose budding should be completed as early as possible. Pansies : 

 continue to propagate, and save seed from the best varieties. Chry- 

 santhemums should be re-potted into larger pots for blooming, using a 

 rich soil, and giving an abundant supply of water. 



IN THE GREENHOUSE, COLD FRAME, &c. 



Light is now more than usually important to elaborate and con- 

 solidate the juices before the winter arrives ; for unless every means is 

 taken to accomplish this, we may expect sad failures during the next 

 winter among our tender and more valuable exotics. To protect them 

 from rain, and to expose them to light, should now more than ever be 

 our earnest study, in regard to choice specimens, especially those which 

 have been recently shifted, and which are in vigorous growth. Almost 

 all the soft-wooded stove-plants that can be grown into large specimens 

 by one or two seasons' growth, like Pelargoniums, may be conveniently 

 treated like that popular tribe; cut them back after they are done 

 flowering ; keep them dry for a week or ten days, and then shake them 

 out of the mould ; shorten their large roots, and pot them in light rich 

 compost in a small pot, as their roots can be got into. Where a large 

 conservatory is to be kept gay all the year round, this class of stove- 

 plants is by far the most useful to cultivate, as you can always winter 

 them in little room ; whereas fine woody plants will soon get too large, 

 and take some years before they are fit to appear in a good conserva- 

 tory. Another great advantage is, that as soon as you get these plants 

 established in the new pots, they will only require to be kept in that 

 condition through the winter, and therefore will not require more than 

 50 D of heat for three or four months. 



Greenhouses and frames, while they remain empty, should be 

 thoroughly cleansed, repaired, whitewashed, and painted. Cleanliness 

 is not only essential to their appearance and preservation, but to keep 

 the plants in a healthy condition. 



