FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH. 287 



given by raising the frame a few inches from the ground. Tulips 

 should be planted as the first opportunities offer. The readiest and 

 most regular way is to plant them on the surface of the bed unfilled to 

 within four inches of the destined surface. Seven strings are then 

 stretched lengthways at equal distances, and secured by nails at each 

 end of the bed ; when the bulbs are planted a short line crosses these, 

 and a bulb is placed at each section ; the small line is then removed the 

 requisite distance, and another row put in. When the bed is planted, 

 the strings are removed, and four inches of soil placed over the roots 

 very carefully, so that none are displaced. Hyacinths should, if not 

 already done, be potted or glassed immediately. For blooming in 

 glasses, use rain or river-water, adding to each pint a tea-spoonful of 

 Cole's chemical preparation in powder, which will be found greatly to 

 increase their luxuriance ; fill up the glasses with this liquid until it 

 will just touch the bottom of the bulb ; place them in total darkness, 

 and change the solution about once a fortnight ; in doing this, hold the 

 bulb in its place, and pour out the contents, filling up again as before. 

 In a few weeks, the roots having advanced considerably, they may be 

 removed to a window or other light situation. Pansies" 1 straggling 

 shoots may now be cut closely, leaving a joint above the ground, and 

 hoops should be placed over the choicest beds, that protection may be 

 given in the event of sudden frost. Carnations will require all the air 

 and exposure possible in damp weather, avoiding continuous wet ; when 

 plants appear mildewed, sprinkle a little sulphur over and under. 

 Pinks — occasionally stir between the rows of plants. Dahlias should 

 be taken up, advantage being taken of fine days ; secure the labels 

 firmly. Chrysanthemums should be placed where they can be freely 

 ventilated, as they ought not to be kept close or warm, or they would 

 soon become drawn and be attacked by insects. 



IN THE GREENHOUSE, COLD FRAME, A.c. 



The proverbial dulness and dampness of the external atmosphere 

 generally prevailing during this month is sufficient to induce more than 

 the ordinary amount of care and attention. Plants of a succulent 

 nature are liable to suffer as much from damp as from frost. Venti- 

 lation on all favourable opportunities is therefore highly necessary, 

 closing the sashes early in the afternoon when a clear sky indicates 

 frost ; this precaution will often prevent the necessity of making fires 

 in these houses. Give water sparingly, especially to plants which are 

 impatient of wet, such as Calceolarias. Pelargoniums, and what are 

 called Scarlet Geraniums, such as have been in beds and newly potted, 

 should be kept nearly dry till they strike root afresh. For want of this 

 care vast numbers are destroyed. 



IN THE FORCING PIT OR STOVE. 



All hardy and half-hardy plants brought in for forcing should have 

 a temperature at first of from 50° to 60°, to be increased up to 75° 

 when more advanced ; but as many plants will not bear such heat, and 

 others will not do much good without a high temperature, there should 

 be two distinct pits, or divisions at least, for this purpose. The double 

 Roman Narcissus is the first of the forced bulbs, and where they have 

 been potted early in August they will now stand 60° of heat, and will 



