.58 CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE. 



of rather heavy and tenacious, not clayey, qualities, with the turf, and 

 lay it in a ridge some months and turn it two or three times before 

 use. A soil from a pasture abounding with, and luxuriantly sustaining, 

 the British species of Ranunculus, or Butter-cups, has also been found 

 congenial to the Asiatic species. Decayed stable and cow dung, in equal 

 quantities, constituting together about one-third, added to two-thirds of 

 loam, will, when mixed and thoroughly incorporated, form a compost 

 for the main depth of the bed ; reserving a portion of loam sufficient 

 to make a top layer of soil two inches deep, to which about half the 

 above stated proportions of well decomposed manure may be added. 

 It is of importance that the tubers should not be placed in contact with 

 fresh manure, as it engenders disease in the roots, and consequent 

 injury to the plants." 



CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE 



(POLIANTHES TUBEROSa). 

 BY AMICUS. 



Observing a correspondent requests information on the culture of 

 the Tuberose, and having grown them magnificent specimens, I for- 

 ward the following, which I trust will be found useful to the inquirer. 



Bulbs of the Tuberose are annually imported from Italy, where they 

 are grown exten-sively for exportation, as Hyacinths are in Holland. 

 As they are sold very cheap, I purchase every autumn, having never 

 been able to bloom satisfactorily those bulbs that I had flowered the 

 preceding year. 



Compost. — Equal parts of well-rotted cow-dung and light sandy 

 turfy loam, not sifted but well chopped or broken, also having a 

 liberal drainage. 



Potting.- — I plant them early in November, singly, in small pots, 

 placing the bulb in the soil about two-thirds deep, pouring a little sand 

 around it to save it from being bound. 



Treatment. — After potting they are placed in the cool part of the 

 greenhouse, and early in February taken into a hot-bed frame of tole- 

 rable temperature, at the upper side thereof; here I allow them to 

 remain until they iiave pushed the main stem to six or eight inches in 

 length. As they push onward from the first, I gradually allow an 

 increase of air, to prevent them being drawn up too rapid and so 

 become weakly. If the pot be filled with roots before the stem attains 

 the height named I repot into a size larger. At the period of growth 

 I mention, I have them placed in a cooler situation in a frame, or 

 warm part of my greenhouse, repot all into pots six inches across, and 

 duly attended to in watering, tying up, &c. I grow specimens four to 

 five feet high, with long spikes of large flowers. Occasionally, 

 I give them liquid manure, Avhich materially contributes to vigour. I 

 find it most essential to success to promote their early growth in a 

 hot-bed frame as described, and being potted in November, they push 

 roots before so removed, and the stems thus shoot up vigorous, much 

 more so than if newly planted in February and at once taken into the 

 hot -bed. 



