130 THE CAMELLIA. 



them, which sliould be kept moist. The portion of the scion below 

 tlie junction must then be immersed in the ]jhial ; and if this is kept 

 full of water, so as to promote growth, the adhesion will take place in 

 a month or six weeks. It is, liowever, advisable to allow the phial to 

 remain some time longer, and not to remove the bandage till the scion 

 lias made some progress in growth. 



" In grafting young stocks, the most convenient method, and to be 

 sure of success, is to prepare a slight hotbed, about 70^ ; or if there is 

 no great quantity of stocks to be worked at one time, a cucumber or 

 melon frame will answer. Having procured grafts from the best 

 double varieties, cut down the stocks to within two inches of the pot, 

 and either whip-graft them with a tongue, or saddle-graft them ; then 

 clay them round in the usual manner, and plunge the plants into the 

 hotbed, covering them over closely with hand-glasses, and they will 

 readily unite in a month or six weeks. I have practised this method 

 of working small Camellia stocks with great success. The soil I have 

 found the Camellia to thrive best in is two parts chopped turf, of a 

 loamy nature, one part turfy peat, one part rotten dung from an old 

 cucumber or melon bed, with a small portion of sand, all well mixed 

 together twelve months previous to the potting season." 



The mode of culture found most successful is thus detailed : — 

 " As the Camellia is a native of a warmer climate than ours, it there- 

 fore requires a greater degree of heat than even a greenhouse can 

 afford during the early summer months to cause it to shoot out vigor- 

 ously, and to thoroughly ripen its flower-buds for the ensuing season. 

 In no situation does the Camellia thrive better than in a vinery under 

 the shade of vines ; it participates in all the heat which is usually given 

 to a house of that description. The usual time of removing the plants 

 from the greenhouse to the vinery is about the middle of May, or as 

 soon as the blooming season is over ; previous to this, examine every 

 pot, and see that they are well drained, as nothing is more injurious to 

 the Camellia than stagnant water about its roots ; repot any that may 

 require it before removing them into the house. They should be 

 watered over head with a syringe twice or thrice a week, to remove 

 any dust that may have settled on their leaves, and to refresh them. 

 During this period, also, plenty of water should be given them at the 

 root, as the heat soon dries the soil in the pots, and they should be 

 kept at all times rather damp than otherwise, provided the pots are 

 well drained. As soon as the buds are well formed, which will be 

 about the end of August, they should be then taken to the back of the 

 greenhouse, or to any shady place, until the end of September or the 

 beginning of October, according to the state of the weather, then to 

 be removed to the greenhouse, and to have as much air admitted to 

 them as possible. In this state their buds will gradually expand ; and 

 when full blown, will remain much longer, and appear much finer, 

 than if the plants had been kept in a close warm house. Great care 

 must be taken not to wet the flowers, as it will completely spoil their 

 beauty, and cause the petals to fall off." 



