240 ON FORCING THE CAMELLIA. 



When it is intended to remove large evergreen shrubs, &c., the 

 coming season, it very materially contributes to success to have a deep 

 trench cut round the plant at the size tlie ball is intended, and thus 

 cut in the roots, which induces them to push lateral ones, and such 

 readily strike afresh when removed. October and early in November 

 is the best season for planting evergreens ; tlie ground possesses some 

 heat then, and promotes their more immediate establishment, and the 

 air is cool and damp in a proportionate degree. 



ON FORCING THE CAMELLIA. 



BY R. ERRINGTON. 



Of all the tribes adapted to cheer the gloomy months of December and 

 January, this, when highly cultivated, is one of the most useful, com- 

 bining the character of a glossy and rich evergreen with the gay tints 

 of the rose. 



Forcing into wood early in the previous year is the one grand 

 principle on whicii all success with tiiis, as a winter floM'er, must de- 

 pend. If this principle is strictly pursued, and under a rather high 

 temperature, combined with much atmospheric moisture (affording a 

 full and free development of the latent energies of the plant), no mid- 

 summer or after-growth will be procured. AVhen the latter takes 

 place it is a sure sign that conflicting principles have been at work, 

 through a somewhat capricious mode of treatment ; that is, with regard 

 to the ultimate object in view. Some persons advocate placing them 

 out of doors in the end of summer. I am prepared to admit that, when 

 the we.itlier is genial, and all is riglit at the root, this course may be 

 conducive to size in the blossom ; however, there is no real necessity 

 for it. I never place mine out unless necessity compels me, and when 

 such has been the case, damage of some kind has generally counter- 

 balanced the benefits anticipated. My plan (and I have been very 

 successful) is this : — First, to force them into wood with rapidity the 

 moment they show a tendency of their own accord to commence growth. 

 Secondly, to lower the temperature (if possible) as soon as they cease 

 to grow. Thirdly, to cut off, in a considerable degree, their supply of 

 moisture at root during this stage. And, lastly, to reverse in some 

 degree the latter plan as soon as the stock in general have formed 

 decided flower-buds. 



All potting or shifting rendered imperatively necessary is performed 

 by me shortly after they have ceased growing. Limitation of space 

 precludes all possibility of showing here how the application of these 

 principles produces the desired results : such, however, is the case, and 

 those who follow them out, with plants possessing (as one of our best 

 gardeners facetiously observes with regard to Pines) " live roots," will 

 alwaj's ensure success. I may remark in regard to soils, in conclusion, 

 that chopped turf of any kind will grow them in perfection, if com- 

 bined with a particular drainage, and accompanied at proper periods 

 by the uses of highly clarified liquid manures. I prefer unctuous loam 

 two parts, sandy heath soil one part, in a somewhat fresh state, chopped 

 and equally blended, to which I add most liberally coarse boiled bone 

 and charcoal, with a little sharp sand. 



