16 FLORICTTLTURAL CALENDAR FOR JULY. 



microscope, it is only necessary to cut off a small piece of the outer coat of the seed, and 

 to place this in a drop of water on a bit of glass, when it will immediately throw out 

 vast numbers of these curious bodies in every direction. 



In concluding these brief and desultory microscopic illustrations, designed only for tho 

 uninitiated reader, we may be permitted to remind him that, in the vegetable as in the 

 animal kingdom, every structure, however minute or humble it may appear, constitutes a 

 link in the great chain of creation, 



'All being parts of one stupendous whole,' 

 and that it is, therefore, as much entitled to study and contemplation, as even the 

 mightiest of Nature's works. W. H. 0. 



FLOEICULTUEAL CALENDAR FOlt JULY. 



Annuals — A few may yet be sown for late flowers ; but it will be necessary to shade the ground from the 

 burning rays by boughs, grass, or moss, as at this season, unless the soil be kept constantly in a moist 

 condition, the seedlings will be destroyed. Tender Annuals, such as Rhodanthe Manglesii, Thunbcrgias, 

 Ipomsea rubro-ea3rulea, and Tortulacas should be planted out, if not done last month, and partially shaded 

 for a day or two. Auriculas — Shade from the mid-day sun. Biennials and Perennials, sow thinly, 

 and shade as directed above for annuals. They are best sown in a reserve garden or spare corner ; and if 

 thinned out while very young, will do best if allowed to remain without transplanting until the following 

 spring. Beddino Plants — Peg down, and remove withered flowers. Bulus of tulips and 

 hyacinths, etc., dig up as soon as the leaves are decayed, and lay to dry gradually in the shade: when the 

 ground is required for other plants before the foliage is withered, the bulbs should be dug up, with earth 

 about them, and laid in again, in any convenient spot. The decay of the leaves of all such plants may be 

 materially assisted by protecting them from water in any form. Cuttinos of nearly all perennial plants 

 will now succeed, such as Penstemons, Linums, Antirrhinums, Petunias, Double Wall-flowers, Chrysanthe- 

 mums, Phloxes, Salvias, and Pelargoniums. Lateral shoots about three or four inches long, pulled ofT close 

 to the principal stem of the plant, will form the best plants. If not covered by a hand-glass, they must be 

 planted entirely in the shade. Dahlia buds and shoots thin out, and let the main stems be carefully 

 staked. Water freely at night, and set traps for earwigs. Edgings of box, clip. Hedges, clip. Holly- 

 hocks and other tall plants must be secured to stout supports. Lawns, mow and roll. Layers of nearly 

 all shrubs and shrubby perennials may now be made, choosing the youngest of the shoots nearest the ground. 

 Pansies may be pruned to produce late flowers ; and the best ot the slips and cuttings may be planted 

 in a moist situation in the shade, or tho lateral shoots may be layered. Pipings of Pinks may be now 

 taken, if not done last month, and the flower stems of those still in bloom carefully tied up ; the pipings 

 should be selected from the strongest shoots, and inserted in a sandy border, and covered with a hand-glass. 

 Picottees and Carnations require much attention ; shade those in bloom from the sun and wind, and 

 support the flowers by neat rods ; water freely, especially where the plants are protected from showers by an 

 awning ; where the calyx is disposed to split unequally, use a tiny ring of vulcanized india-rubber to support 

 it : layering may be performed about the middle of the month. Rose Budding may now be performed, 

 using stocks of the wild-briar, which experience has shown to be the best suited for standard and half- 

 standard roses. Bud but one variety on each stock, and choose the moment when the bark freely separates 

 both from the stocks and the young shoots from which the buds are taken. Remove the suckers from 

 standards, thin out the shoots where they are crowded, and cut off all decaying flowers. Dwarf roses may 

 now be layered, and the young plants will be fit to remove in the autumn or following spring. In budding, 

 narrow bands of sheet gutta percha may be used instead of bast ; or thin strips of india-rubber might be, 

 we think, employed with advantage. Cuttings of all the China roses will now root readily, but will require 

 some protection during winter. Seed-vessels remove from most plants to prolong the flowering season. 

 Seeds of bulbous plants require to be sown as soon as ripe, or they will not vegetate. Tie up all plants 

 requiring it, to neat hazel or sallow-rods, which are much better than the painted sticks usually employed. 

 Do not tic the whole plant into a bundle, as is often done, but secure the principal stems or shoots, each to 

 a separate support, by which the beauties of the plant will bo more effectually displayed, and the sun and air 

 admitted to the central branches. Twinino and climbing plants must be carefully trained and secured 

 to their supports and trellises ; and from the rapid growth of most of the kinds, constant attention is requisite, 

 or they will soon become a tangled mass. 



