24 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM, 1914. 
intention being to round out the subject with as little duplication as 
possible. 
The collection is, of course, confined to the period of civilization in 
this country. Back of it is the ethnology of the American Indian, but 
between is a considerable number of years which are not represented, 
since the earliest costume it contains dates no further back than the 
middle of the eighteenth century. It is hoped that this gap will not 
remain without at least some illustrations. The costumes that have 
been assembled do not include those of the lowly, but belong entirely 
to at least the well to do, and mainly to the wealthy and distin- 
guished, the classes to which the term “ fashion” seems solely to ap- 
pertain. With these classes, therefore, have also originated the 
changes in fashion, which, with the growth of the collection, are dis- 
covered to be more distinctive, more progressively varying, and more 
instructive than had been anticipated. For the study of this, the his- 
torical, side of the subject of American costumes, the collection, small 
as it still is, furnishes excellent material, as it also does for the study 
of American history in general by its representation of so many per- 
sons of notable connection with the affairs of the country. 
For the inception of the collection, for the plan of its composition, 
for the assembling of its innumerable parts, and for its installation 
acknowledgments are due to Mrs. Julian James, of Washington, who 
has had the constant hearty cooperation of Mrs. R. R. Hoes and the 
help and advice of many other ladies of the Capital City. Upon Mrs. 
James and Mrs. Hoes, however, has almost wholly devolved the work 
of bringing together the costumes and other articles, which include 
many contributions from their own stores of heirlooms, and of pre- 
paring and arranging them for exhibition. The task has been espe- 
cially arduous, as the materials had to be sought in many places and 
were mainly acquired through their personal efforts. Their part, 
moreover, has been entirely a labor of love, and has been conducted 
with a zeal and devotion which could not but insure success. And 
so with inconsiderable expense to the Museum has been added a sec- 
tion of great importance, of extreme interest to the public, of high 
intrinsic value, attractive and pleasing, but at the same time classified 
and arranged in accordance with museum methods, and for a com- 
parison with which one finds nothing in this country and little in 
Europe. 
The space occupied by the period costume collection is the north 
west range, which is most easily reached from the main entrance by 
passing to the right through the smaller hall of history. There is 
also another opening from the west hall and communication with 
the northwest court. The range measures about 63 by 50 feet, and 
has a sloping ceiling which varies in height from 26 to 31 feet. 
