316 On the Fur Trade, and Fur-bearing Animals. 
tournaments and heraldry lasted in high glory for three centuries 5 
and then declined together on the introduction of fire arms. Mail- — 
ed knights in their resplendent coats of arms were only the more 
conspicuous marks for shot, and the stern compulsion of an improved 
military system, caused a revolution in all the aspects of that era. 
The chieftain’s banner gave way to the national flag; and the men at 
arms and the feudal retainer, were replaced by a mercenary sol- 
diery. Silk also began to gain an ascendancy over furs, as it was 
more readily and gracefully accommodated to the capricious vaga- 
ries of fashion, and better adapted to the light and flowing draperies 
of dress and furniture than furs, which — rich, were we too 
heavy for all climes and seasons.’ 
‘Although “ the noble furs,” sable, ermine, gris ~ vair, “eleietibe 
precedence, yet in the eleventh century the fur of the minever or 
mink, an amphibious animal from Russia, became’a fashionable edg-— 
ing for the robes of gentleman, and the richer of the middling classes. 
Previous to the direct trade’ in‘furs, established by Sir Richard 
Chancellor between England and Russia, they were brought from 
the north east through the ports of Livonia to the Hanse merchants, 
on the south coasts of the Baltic, and thence were distributed 
throughout Europe.f The Livonian trade was conducted in a mode 
so circuitous and with such suspicious policy, that it was known by 
very few where the furs were procured. The Livonian war induced 
the Czar, to open a direct trade, at the request of the merchants of 
wee through Sir Richard Chancellor, who discovered. a pass- 
age around the North Cape to Archangel, in 1553. An English — 
ciigleg protected by the Czar, established several posts on the 
White Sea, with a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading 
parties to Persia, and the countries on the Caspian. They exported 
silks and woollens, and received furs among other exchanges in re- 
turn. ‘The country bounded on the west by the Dwina, which ‘falls 
~®* Mr. Aikin says, that “silken oo and velvet was s roby invented in imita-. 
tion of -ggh 
tI Te a and + Wh 
, furs were the common coverings ‘of beds, 
in the middle and west of bias besides dite the principal and most distinctive 
part of dress. The more precious furs were reserved for kings, knights and the prin- 
cipal nobility. Persons of inferior rank contented themselves with the vair or Hun- 
garian squirrel, and the gris or gray; the lower orders of citizens, and burgesses, 
with the common squirrel and lamb skins. The peasants wore cat skins, badger 
skins, &c. Votes oe Fabliaux, or Tales of the twelfth and thirteenth century. 
