20 CRUISE OF STEAMEE COEWIN EN THE AECTIC OCEAN. 



atmosphere was unusually clear, makiug objects visible a long distance. The high hills on the 

 north side of Norton Sound were raised up by refraction, and their white snow-clad peaks gleain- 

 iug in the mirage produced many very beautiful effects, at times coming clearly into view and 

 assuming a thousand fantastic forms, then as suddenly passing from sight only to reappear a moment 

 later apparently nearer and clearer than before. During the night of the 18th we passed several 

 small patches of ice, but nothing to interfere with our progress, and on the following morning we 

 arrived at Saint Michael's. During our passage through Norton Sound we noticed a large quantity 

 of drift- wood, also a great deal of reddish-colored water, with a temperature of 38° and 40°. This 

 is a portion of the water discharged from the northern mouth of the Yukon, which crosses Norton 

 Sound and striking its northern coast is deflected to the westward, and passing Cape Prince of 

 Wales enters the Arctic Ocean. This fresh water does not mix readily with the sea water and 

 in calm weather its western edge may often be traced for miles both by its color and temperature. 

 In the spring, when the water in the rivers is high, large quantities of drift-wood are brought down, 

 much of which is deposited on the north shore of Norton Sound between Cape Nome and Cape 

 Prince of Wales; the beach is thickly covered with it, and it is found in smaller quantities to the 

 eastern limit of the bay. This stream of fresh water, however, is only superficial ; being lighter 

 than the sea water, it remains on the surface until agitated by wind or current, when it loses itself 

 in the sea water. Captain Beechey, while sailing along the coast between Point Hope and Kotze- 

 bue Sound in H. M. S. Blossom, in 1826, found a current with a velocity, at times, of three knots. 

 By means of the patent log, however, he learned that this current was confined to a depth of be- 

 tween 9 and 12 feet, the specific gravity varying from 1.02502 to 1.0173, with a temperature of 58°. 

 This water discharged from the rivers emptying into Hotham Inlet and Escbscholtz Bay and a few 

 smaller streams discharging into the bay of Good Hope (as the head of Kotzebue Sound is some- 

 times called) is like that from the Yukon, and does not mix readily until agitated by wind or 

 current. 



On the morning of Juue 19 we reached Saint Michael's, and, to our great delight, found the 

 weather fine. The snow was all gone, the hills bright with beautiful, fragrant flowers, and the air 

 filled with song-birds. The change from the ice, snow, fog, and wind with which we had been 

 struggling for the last mouth was so very great, that it was difficult to realize that we were barely 

 outside of the Arctic Circle. One of the most remarkable and interesting features of the Arctic 

 climate is the rapid, almost magical, change of seasons from the ice, snow, cold, darkness, and des- 

 olation of winter to the warm, bright sunshine, sweet flowers, and merry singing-birds of the sum 

 nier. There is no lingering spring or autumn in the Arctic regions. Summer and winter follow one 

 another so closely that it may be fairly said that there are but two seasons. On our arrival in Nor- 

 ton Sound one year ago this date we were stopped by the ice about 10 miles from the settlement, 

 and the country in all directions was white with snow. A few days later (7th of July), after a short 

 cruise into the Arctic, we again returned to Saint Michael's, and found the ice and snow gone and 

 the grass springing up, flowers in bloom, and the air so filled with mosquitoes that it was with great 

 difficulty that observations could be taken on account of thousands of these little pests covering 

 the lenses of the instruments. Our arrival at Saint Michael's was hailed by a salute of two guns 

 from each of the two trading companies located there, which we returned. Soon after our arrival 

 a small trading steamer belonging to the Western Fur and Trading Company arrived from the Upper 

 Yukon, briuging some of the company's traders and the furs purchased by them during the past 

 winter. They reported a mild winter, and a light fall of snow, not exceeding two feet at any time. 

 A good deal of complaint is made by the traders of the conduct of the Indians, which, they allege, 

 is growing worse each year. It is said they demand credit, and when goods are obtained in this 

 way they refuse payment and make their own terms with the traders, often compelling them to 

 pay more for the furs than they receive from the companies. By allowing them their own way 

 during the past year the traders have avoided many serious quarrels. But it is believed that 

 unless some action be taken by the Government serious trouble is sure to come before many years, 

 and it is uot unlikely that it will result in an expensive war. Of the tribes on the Yukon and its 

 tributaries, as many as could be concentrated would participate in case of an Indian war. The 

 causes that have led to this are various. One is that several perpetrators of cold-blooded murders 

 are now running at large in the Territory, with no effort being made for their apprehension. I re- 



