CRUISE OF STEAMER CORWIN IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 47 



to the whales and ice. The reports of the latter were very favorable. Some of the vessels had 

 already been in sight of Herald Island. After learning this I was anxious to get near the island, 

 for I had strong hope of being able to land there and possibly on Wrangel Island later in the 

 season. But the same circumstance which rendered this prospect so hopeful to us had the oppo- 

 site effect on the whalers. The ice being so light allowed the whales to go into the p;ick far out 

 of reach, where they would remain until the closing of the ice should drive them out in the fall. 

 Fortunately most of the ships had done well early in the season, many having already made a fair 

 catch. 



On the 25th the weather continued fine, with occasional fog banks, which, however, lasted 

 but a short time. Being anxious to get started to the westward, I determined to return to Icy 

 Cape and, if the ice remained the same, to try to go up inside of it in the steam cutter, taking 

 another boat in tow, with fuel for two weeks, extra provisions, &c. Accordingly the steam and 

 second cutters were fitted out; the steamer was housed over with an awning and curtains which 

 had been made for her, and fitted with a mast and sail borrowed from the steam whaler Belvi- 

 dere. Fuel, provisions, clothing, and arms were got in readiness and we hoped to be able to get 

 well up the coast. On arriving at Icy Cape the prospect was rather discouraging. The pack was 

 resting against the shoal, evidently pressing very hard, and, in some places, it was fairly forced 

 out upon the shoal. In trying to get near enough to learn whether any clear water existed to the 

 eastward, inshore of the pack, the vessel touched the bottom, but backed off without difficulty, 

 and. dropping back clear of the shoals, we came to anchor. An examination with the steam 

 cutter, however, showed the pack to be resting against the shore, and with such powerful pressure 

 that it was forced entirely out of water on the shore. Consequently we were obliged to abandon 

 the undertaking, much to our regret. We remained at anchor during the afternoon, and improved 

 the time by examining the coast line. The entrauce into the lagoon which lies between the outer 

 shingle beach and the coast line proper was sounded out. This entrauce, which has over 2 

 fathoms of water, is within 2 miles of the pitch of the cape. A vessel thawing 2 fathoms could 

 find good winter quarters here, entirely free from danger from ire pressure. The shingle beach 

 which forms the west side of this lagoon extends for about 100 miles along the shore. Beginning 

 in latitude 09° 20', it ends at Wainwright Inlet, in latitude 70° 35', and is from a few hundred 

 yards to miles in width. The lagoon has several openings to the sea, two at least having been 

 sounded and found to contain 2 fathoms of water. The lagoon is from 54 to 10 miles wide, and 

 is crossed by occasional sand bars, some entirely dry, so that it is only navigable for boats 

 sufficiently lij^lit to be hauled across the portages. The coast line proper at Icy Cape consists of 

 a series of mud cliffs from 10 to 50 feet in height. The surrounding country is low and slightly 

 rolling ; in color it does not differ from all other points of the coast north of Bering Straits, gray 

 and brown, sometimes a greenish tinge, and the ever present lines of dark green, caused by dwarf 

 willows, birches, and alders, following the banks of each little stream of melting snow. All along 

 these shingly beaches we found pieces of coal, probably brought thither by the ice from the coal 

 veins farther south. There are occasional settlements of natives. A more cheerless place it 

 would be difficult to imagine for human beings to live in. During the summer they travel and 

 live in tents. In the early spring and fall they kill walrus and occasionally a whale. At each 

 settlement we saw drift logs set on end for lookout stations. In the whaling season the oomiacs 

 are kept in readiness for immediate use, and one native takes his station on the top of the lookout 

 pole, keeps a watch, and gives the alarm if whales are seen. Then the oomiacs put off, and, if 

 fortunate enough to kill a whale, a great feast ensues. The flesh' and blubber are partaken of by 

 all, and some amicable arrangement is made in the disposition of the baleen. In the winter these 

 people hunt reindeer, wolves, and foxes on the mainland. They are visited each year by the 

 whalers, and from them buy a supply of ammunition, tobacco, drilling, &C., paying in whalebone, 

 walrus ivory, and furs. 



Being compelled to abandon our boat trip we got under way in the evening, making sail and 

 uncoupling the propeller. The ice was in sight from the shore 25 miles south of the cape, and the 

 blink extended to the southwest as far as we could see from the mast-head. Running southward 

 all night under sail with a moderate breeze and clear weather, and keeping in six fathoms of 



