64 CRUISE OF STEAMER CORWIN IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 



we succeeded in gaining their confidence sufficiently to allow themselves to be grouped for a 

 photograph, although they evideutly did it with many misgivings, and a constant desire to back 

 out and run away. This party was rather inferior looking, with small, pinched features, dull- 

 looking eyes, and sharp noses. They all carried large knives, some of enormous size, and one had 

 a bear-spear. Only one gun was seen, a small single-barrel shot-gun of Russian make, and that 

 was so broken as to be entirely useless. They had no boat of any kind, but a fish-net and pole 

 for setting it were observed near where we landed. They had a few salmon trout, which they 

 offered for sale, but beiug too stale for use by white men we did not purchase. 



After completing our observations, we again got under way and continued along the coast, 

 working through heavy drift and grounded ice, keeping as close to the shore as the depth of water 

 and condition of the ice would permit. In the evening we arrived at Cape North, where we were 

 again compelled to leave the land, the ice becoming so closely packed that it was found impossible 

 to pick our way through it any farther. It did not extend far off shore, however, and a run of 

 about three hours brought us to clear water, when we again shaped a course for the southeast 

 coast of Wrangel Land, hoping that the ice had thinned out sufficiently to enable us to reach 

 the laud. We had a fresh southeast breeze all night, with no ice to interfere, and with all sail 

 and steam we made good time. Towards morning the weather became thick and misty, with 

 fine rain, and the wind continued to increase. At 10 a. m., when, according to our reckoning, 

 we were about 25 miles from the land, we passed several pieces of dnu-ice. The weather 

 being quite thick, with a strong breeze and considerable sea, we hauled to the wind and hove 

 to, under sail, to avoid the .pack which we knew could not be far away. The lead showed 

 22 fathoms, with hard bottom ; this gradually decreased during the day to 20 fathoms. In the 

 afternoon a huge polar bear swam out from the ice to the vessel, probably attracted by the smoke. 

 Approaching within about 100 yards, he took a good, long look, and after snuffing the air several 

 tines, as if trying by means of the senses of smell and sight to determine the nature of his strange 

 visitor, he turned and swam away as leisurely as he had approached, notwithstanding several 

 shots were fired at him, which, owing to the rolling of the vessel, were without effect. We 

 remained standing off and on under sail during the night of the 9th, with a fresh breeze from the 

 southeast, considerable sea, and very thick weather, making a west drift of about one-half a knot 

 per hour; the temperature of the sea-surface, 34°. During the morning of the 10th the wind 

 moderated, although the sea kept up, showing that a fresh breeze was still blowing to windward. 

 This was taken as an indication that we were drawing very near to the ice-pack, consequently a 

 close watch was kept on the temperature of the water, which soon after dropped to 32°, and at 

 almost the same instaut we heard the beating of the surf on the edge of the ice. Wind blowing 

 onto the ice-pack seldom "blows home." Even with a strong breeze, a moderated belt, and often- 

 times a calm one, will be found along the edge of the ice and for some distance within the pack. 

 As the weather still continued thick, about 11 a. m. we came to with the kedge, and observed the 

 set and force of current, which was found to be north-northwest true, and about one-fourth of a 

 knot per hour; temperature of the water, 32°. At meridian the suu broke through the fog for a 

 few minutes and the weather showed signs of clearing, but soon after shut down again thicker 

 than before, compelling us to wait as patiently as one could for a clear-up, which occurred about 

 midnight, when the fog commenced to condense, and by 1 a. in. (August 11) the atmosphere was 

 perfectly clear and Wrangel Island in plain sight, about 30 miles distant, covering an arc of the 

 horizon from northwest to north-northeast, true. The ice-pack, which was within half a mile, sur- 

 rounded us on all sides except between south and southeast by east, in which direction was open 

 water. A narrow lead of open water also showed towards the northwest as far as we could see 

 from the mast-head. We got under way immediately, and, entering this lead, steamed in towards 

 the land until 2.30 a. m., when we came to the end of the lead, but the drift-ice still being open, 

 we continued on until 4 a. in., when the ice, which had been gradually getting closer as we 

 approached the land, became so densely packed that it was found to be impossible to force the 

 vessel any farther. We judged the land to be about 15 miles away. The clear atmosphere 

 affording a fine view of the land, the opportunity was improved by taking sketches and bearings 

 of prominent points, &c. After making several ineffectual attempts to force our way in closer to 

 the land, and finding it impossible, we reluctantly turned our backs on it and pushed out for clear 



