332 Mr. Boyd Alexander on the 



The only communication between the different farms on 

 the island and Santa Isabel is by means of surf-boats, which 

 are manned by West-African natives, chiefly from Sierra 

 Leone and the Kru coast. 



The approach to the island by the steamer is from the 

 north, and as one drops anchor in the beautiful little bay 

 of Santa Isabel the lofty peak confronts the traveller, 

 towering above the harbour. In the distance to the left, 

 its taller sister, the Cameroon Peak, also clothed with forest- 

 growth, is visible even down to the Avhite-walled houses of 

 Victoria, which nestles at its base. 



On Oct. 28th I landed at Santa Isabel, which presented a 

 scene of much bustle and activity. It was the cocoa-season, 

 and strings of carriers with bags upon their backs were 

 journeying to and from the landing-stage. Throughout the 

 day I was busy getting my baggage together and taking 

 in stores for an early start up-country on the morrow. 

 Trade-goods — such as beads, tobacco, rum, gunpowder, and 

 clothes, — besides bags of rice for the carriers, had to be taken, 

 and this greatly increased the work of transport. Much 

 assistance was given to me by Mr. Couch, of the well-known 

 trading-firm of Messrs. Holt. The Governor, the Marquis 

 Montifuerte, also showed himself gracious and allowed all 

 the baggage to pass free of custom-duties : this was a 

 distinct advantage, since the duties are heavy. 



At 5.30 a.m. on Oct. 29th our column of twenty-five men 

 was on the move. This quick departure greatly surprised 

 all the natives, who said " it must mean business." It was 

 a fortunate thing that we arrived with carriers, as there 

 was not a labourer to be had on the island — a curious state 

 of things in a country so fertile and so full of possibilities. 

 But the natives, known as Edeeyahs or Boobies, are ex- 

 cessively indolent, and nothing will induce them to work for 

 any length of time. They are a feeble people and form a 

 strange contrast to other West-African races. Of short 

 stature, abdominous and spindle-shanked, and with broad 

 furtive faces, they create anything but a favourable im- 

 pression. Their dirt is undescribable ; they seldom wash, but 



