86 ON THE PRESENT DOMESTIC USE OF LICHEN DYESTUFFS 
2. Hearthrugs. 
3. Polkas and scarfs for women (knitted) e. g. those specially made 
for the women of Ness. 
4. Stockings and socks of all kinds and sizes (knitted). 
Extreme variety of practice exists as to the precise process of dyeing, 
especially in reference to the use or non-use of mordants (such as Sumac, 
alum, and copperas); the employment of Crottle alone, or in com- 
bination with other native dyes (such as Heather, Alder-bark, Water- 
lily, or Soot) ; the selection of white or grey yarns; and the determi- 
nation of the pattern (striped or plain). But the essentials of the pro- 
cess of preparation and applieation appear to be that— 
l. The Lichen is crushed into a coarse powder between stones. 
2. It is steeped or not in water, to cleanse apparently from im- 
purities. 
3. Alternate layers of yarn and powdered Crottle are laid in an iron 
pot; and,— 
4. The whole is boiled in water, generally without addition of any 
kind. 
It is noteworthy here, that no form of ammoniacal maceration is 
resorted to; the former use of putrid urine, and the Graith pig ap- 
pears to be unknown. The result of the discontinuance of this custom 
is, however, a less variety of colours, and an inferior beauty of shade, 
especially as regards its character of Orchill, 7. e. the possession of a 
red or purple hue. 
The yarn is thus dyed, and the articles of clothing above enumerated 
are woven or knitted, for the most part, by the female part of the 
population, and of all grades, from the minister’s wife to the poorest 
cotter, chiefly during the long dreary season of winter; and I may 
note here, that in respect of their industry in worsted work, the Long 
Islanders resemble the inhabitants of the more northern islands of 
Iceland, Faroe, and Shetland. Harris is the great centre of the native 
woollen manufactures I refer to. The goods in question are made, in 
the first place, for home use, and the finest qualities are invariably re- 
served for this end, and so are not to be met with in the market. But 
the surplus is brought or sent for sale, or rather for exchange, to the 
annual fair at Stornoway, in July, from all parts of the Long Island, 
and even from remote St. Kiida. The dealings of the peasantry are 
mainly with a few old-established native merchants, with whom they 
