ATHABASCA DISTRICT 63 



from the left bank for nearly a mile and terminating in a series 

 of ledges over which the narrowed stream poured in a tumultu- 

 ous, roaring torrent. A wooded island in midstream is occu- 

 pied as a breeding place by hundreds of white pelicans. When 

 we landed upon it there were scores of them about the nests, 

 covering the ground. They had destroyed all undergrowth, 

 but the heavy spruce overhead prevented their rising in flight 

 until they waddled to the bank. Eggs in various stages of 

 incubation were scattered about, and many naked nestlings 

 huddled together in squeaking heaps at our approach. 



The Mountain Portage is a short 1 one across the high, steep, 

 sandy ridge. It is so narrow that a cut across the top several 

 feet in depth has been made; boats are dragged across with the 

 aid of block and tackle. The portage was at one time made 

 along the right bank, but was abandoned as being too danger- 

 ous. After passing some very rough water at the foot of the 

 rapids we crossed to the east bank of the river, flowing in a 

 straight reach to the Portage of the Drowned (Portage des 

 Noyes 2 ), over which boats are run with a half load. 



The fishery at the foot of these rapids, the last obstruction of 

 any consequence in the Mackenzie River system, has induced 

 several Indian families to build cabins along the right bank. 

 We carried our canoe along the portage path before their doors, 

 and reembarked to cross the broad stream to Fort Smith. This 

 fort stands on the level, sandy plateau, high above the river. 

 At the time of my visit, the Company's buildings consisted of 

 three low, barn-roofed log structures, without the neat white- 

 washed fence to be seen at other northern posts. The indis- 

 pensable flagstaff stood at the edge of the bluff. A log ware- 

 house beside the steamboat landing, the mission, and a few 

 scattered huts made up the "Fort," named in honor of the 

 present governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, though it has 

 been termed 3 "the most disreputable establishment" and "the 



1 " Seven hundred paces." Richardson, Arctic Searching Expedition, p. 

 91. It was known to the early voyageurs as the Pelican Portage, the name 

 "Mountain" being at that time applied to a smaller portage above. Mack- 

 enzie mentions "the hill," which was crossed by a portage of 820 paces. 

 Voyages, p. 5. 



*"In the year 1786, five men were drowned, and two canoes and some 

 packages lost, in the rapids on the other side of the river, which occasioned 

 this place to be called the Portage des NoyesP Mackenzie," Voyages, p. 5. 



8 Pike, Warburton, Barren Ground, p. 17. 



