80 EXPLORATIONS IN THE FAR NORTH 



morning a strong breeze blew from the northwest. As we were 

 short-handed, no one thought of paddling when it was possible 

 to sail, so we ran gaily before the wind, keeping clear of the 

 rocks by good luck rather than by skillful management. In 

 an hour we reached an island upon which was encamped an 

 old Indian named Tenony, formerly the engaged hunter for 

 Rae, now generally called "The Fort Hunter." He had killed 

 a moose and a black bear on the mainland near by and, with 

 a half dozen of his family, was then engaged in drying the 

 small portion of the meat remaining after they had feasted for 

 two or three days. Moose are rarely killed near Rae, and their 

 meat is prized accordingly. As that was the height of the 

 berry season, the bear was very fat. The sight of bear's grease 

 and moose ribs was sufficient to confirm my compagnons de 

 voyage in the belief that the wind was blowing too strongly for 

 us to continue. 



The rocks offered no shelter from the cold and piercing wind 

 which drove clouds of mist, and occasionally rain, down upon 

 us. Every available kettle was soon boiling; the newcomers 

 provided the always acceptable tea, and Tenony hospitably in- 

 vited us to help ourselves to the meat, which hung upon a 

 temporary drying stage of crooked birch poles. The meat was 

 eaten boiled, roasted, burned, and even raw. We had had our 

 breakfast but a short time before, but that did not deter the 

 metis from gorging themselves, a performance repeated at 

 short intervals throughout the day. I had not yet abandoned 

 the custom of eating but three meals a day, and cared nothing 

 for the tea-drinking and the smoking with which they occupied 

 themselves between meals. I had nothing to read, I was on a 

 rocky islet where I could not collect specimens of any kind, 

 and I could not talk Dog Rib — so that I was very glad when 

 we again hoisted sail and parted from the most hospitable and 

 most persistent beggar of the eight hundred comprising the 

 Dog Rib nation. 



I was simply a passenger, with no authority whatever over 

 my companions' movements; I furnished tea for the party and 

 wielded a paddle. Aside from the discomfort and hardship 

 of such an arrangement, it gave the Indians the idea that I was 

 a servant and not a " master," as they term the officers of the 

 Company and explorers traveling through the country. As a 



