Tour in Cyprus in 1887. 109 



has a bad name^ and at the village of Akrotiri, which is 

 situated close to them, the infant mortality is said to be such 

 that tliei'e is always oiie (but only one) baby in the place. 

 Passing through Limassol, and picking up a few necessary 

 provisions, I struck northwards into the mountains, having 

 fixed on Jerona, a little hamlet at an altitude of 1700 feet, 

 as my station for a few days, I camped en route at the 

 village of Agrounda. It was ray first experience under 

 canvas in Cyprus^ and by no means a very pleasing one, for, 

 in spite of having barricaded the tent to the best of my ability 

 with my luggage, it was burglariously entered, and every- 

 thing eatable stolen by pariah dogs during the night. To 

 tbe last day of my residence on the island I could never 

 make up my mind as to whether camp or village life was the 

 lesser evil. In the one case I warred with dogs and ants, in 

 the other with fleas and a less lively but equally obnoxious 

 insect. I was like the gentleman who sought advice as to the 

 matrimonial state. It did not matter whether I took up my 

 quarters with the village Muktar, or went under canvas. In 

 either case I was sure to regret my action. 



The southern range of mountains affords some exceedingly 

 fine views, and the abruptness of the valleys reminded me 

 strongly of some parts of Madeira, though it must be ad- 

 mitted that the lack of trees detracts considerably from the 

 beauty of the scenery. The hills were ablaze with flowers — 

 rock-roses, cyclamens, and furze; but I do not think I ever 

 saw a country poorer in bird-life. Not a single Raptorial 

 bird was to be seen, and the only species I noticed during a 

 whole day's ride were Saxicola morio, Emberiza ccesia, and 

 Sylvia inelanothorax. I found Jerona a dirty village, with 

 still dirtier inhabitants, but magnificently situated on a spur 

 overlooking a deep and picturesque valley. There were no 

 more birds here, however, than I had seen on my way up 

 from Agrounda, and, after a day's rest, I decided to push on. 

 My next stopping-place was Leokara, a large village some 

 hours to the eastward ; but I met with no better fortune here 

 than at Jerona, and I left as soon as I was able, reaching 

 Larnaka on the 7th of April. I should have started a day 



