96 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 



the interior of the ball has become dry during summer (which is frequently the 

 case with large plants), all slight watering afterwards only moistens the outside 

 of the ball. The best remedy for this is to take a blunt pointed stick and pierce 

 holes through the centre of it, and give a good soaking of water. In your case 

 administer a good top-dressiDg of fresh loam aud well decayed cow dung (three 

 parts of the former to one of the latter) just before housing for the winter, and 

 afterwards occasionally during the winter stir the surface with a blunt pointed 

 stick, this will keep the soil light. Allow moisture to pass through freely, and, 

 with a little heat and moisture applied in November, most probably your flowers 

 will expand freely ; for in nearly all cases like yours, when flower-buds fall off in 

 winter, the evil arises either from want of heat or moisture. The camellia is one 

 of those patient plants which does not show injury for months after it has 

 received it, unless the injury is very great indeed ; for the camellia, like all true 

 evergreens, is not actually in a state of rest at any time of the year. 



Lettuces. — New Subscriber. — The object of tying up lettuces is to blanch 

 them. The outer leaves are tied over the inner ones so as to exclude the latter 

 as much as possible from light. Tou must not, however, tie them up in wet 

 weather, or the plants are apt to rot at the heart. 



Eably Peas. — _B. C. J. — It is doubtless a good plan to shelter early peas 

 when growing by placing a hedge of matting, or of plaited bean sticks, or other 

 protection between the rows, where they are much exposed to cold winds, pro- 

 vided the protection does not shade the plant too much. 



Laekspue. — W. S. — Sow at the end of March. Thin out to six inches apart, 

 and leave them to their fate. Do not think of raising it in heat, or trans- 

 planting it. 



Gloxinias. — Lady Subscriber. — You were right in drying off your seedlings 

 in autumn. Before starting the roots again, they should be taken out of the old 

 soil and fresh potted in a mixture of equal parts of light sandy peat and leaf- 

 mould, to which may be added a small portion of well-decomposed cow-dung, 

 using plenty of drainage. Afterwards they should be placed in moist heat, and 

 fully exposed to light. When they begin to grow, water should be given in 

 small quantities at first, but freely both to roots and tops after the plants have 

 become somewhat advanced. 



Vine Planting. — C. S. B. — In planting your vines, spread the roots out on 

 the surface of the border, and cover them with no more soil than will keep them 

 firm. In order to prevent the roots from becoming dry, cover the border with 

 litter until the plants are established. 



Annuals. — Jane. — The following sown at the end of the month, in a gentle 

 heat, will smarten up the empty shelves of your greenhouse in autumn, when 

 your other plants are out of doors, viz. : Bhodanthe Manglesii, Nemophila 

 insignia, Viscaria oculata, Portulaca splendens and Thellusoni, Lobelia ramosa, 

 Salpiglossis, Schizanthus retusus, Zinnia elegans, Brachycoma iberidifolia, Marty nia 

 fragrans, Clintonia pulchella, Mesembryantheruuni (tricolor) pyropceum, Balsams 

 and Cockscombs, and to these may be added the Fringed Chinese Primulas, 

 Cinerarias, and Calceolarias, which, if sown about the end of March, will flower 

 in aiitumn. 



Vine Disease. — Alpha. — The white mould which you found on the roots of 

 your vines, in a concrete border, is probably connected with the oidium, and 

 may have been encouraged by excessive dryness. As your vines are probably now 

 breaking, all you can do at present is to stir the soil and introduce some lime 

 and sulphur near the roots, and apply sulphur frequently to the vines inside the 

 house. 



Spanish Chestnuts.— Jacob. — Tou should not allow your Spanish chestnuts 

 to form more than one main stem. This can be readily managed by shortening 

 or stoppiug the laterals ; and if the main stem once gets the mastery, the laterals 

 will dwindle away, or can be readily removed. If the trees are very young, then 

 the strongest laterals may be cut clean out ; but pinching the ends when growing 

 is better, until the main stem is in full vigour of growth. 



