THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 191 



inuch light as possible. If the pots are fall of roots, shift at once, 

 and, as soon as the plants seem to have taken to the fresh pot, stop 

 them, and regulate the shoots. In May, or as soon as mild warm 

 weather has set in, remove them to a cold frame, and treat them 

 during the summer as recommended for last season — giving a second 

 shift as early as it may be required ; but a large shift should not be 

 given at this season. They should be wintered as recommended last 

 year, and if they are considered large enough for blooming, they 

 should be allowed to remain in the greenhouse until the blossoms 

 expand ; while in the bloom they may be placed in any airy cool 

 situation, and if screened from the mid-day sun the colour will stand 

 longer. If large handsome specimens are desired, it will probably 

 be necessary to grow them another season, and in that case the 

 plants must be placed in a growing temperature early in spring, 

 and stopped and potted as recommended for other seasons. "Well- 

 established specimens may be kept in the greenhouse after flowering, 

 to make wood, and may be removed to the plant ground in autumn ; 

 but a sheltered situation should be afforded them, and they must 

 be removed to the greenhouse as soon as heavy rains shall have set 

 in, especially if they have been fresh potted during the season. 

 Good rich turfy peat is the only suitable soil for this genus, and as 

 the best pieces only should be used, break it up into nice small bits, 

 and mix it liberally with sharp silver-sand and broken potsherds, or 

 small bits of charcoal. In potting, make the fresh soil rather firm 

 about the old balls. 



REMINDERS FOR GARDEN WORK IN JUNE. 



lINKS, Caenations, and Picotees. — Having reduced the stems to 

 one, and the buds on that stem to two or three, the forwardest must 

 be tied round the middle ; to prevent it from bursting, worsted or 

 bast matting will do to tie with ; some use strips of parchment or 

 goldbeater's skin, and gum them round the bud, which is a bad plan ; 

 worsted will stretch a little, so that though restrained, the bud is not damaged, 

 and bast matting is tied with only the single knot, 60 that even that would give 

 enough to prevent damage. Cards are then to be placed under the flower to hold 

 up the guard petals, which should be laid down as they develop themselves, and 

 form a circular outline as near as may be ; the easiest mode of putting oa the 

 card is to make a circular mark in the middle of it, as large as a sixpence, and cut 

 across it five times ; by pressing the little finger upon it, the card gives way, and 

 a round hole is formed, the angular points forming so many springs to hold the 

 end in its place ; the card is passed ou by cutting it from the edge to the hole in 

 the centre. The first row of large petals having been laid down, the next sized 

 petals should be brought down also as they bloom, laving one over each pair of 

 the guard petals; soon with a third row if there be one, and cover the pairs of 

 the second ; the others must form a crown or high centre, and any that happen 

 to be ragged or self-coloured, or in the way, must be pulled out. They must have 

 no sun nor rain to wet the flowers when they once open; oiled paper caps held 

 above the flower with a stick are mostly used. When the first flowers are perfect, 

 the work of propagation must be done by piping, that U, the sprigs round the 

 bottom of the stem are taken off two inches long, the lower leaves stripped oil', 

 and planted in rich earth, watered till it is like mud, hand-glasses covered over 

 them, and shaded from the mid-day sun. 



EEOBBf. — Bud as soon as the stocks have grown enough to offer an oppor- 

 tunity ; their bark should readily peel off. Take a bud from a rose you wish to 

 June. 



