THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 215 



the pot with crocks, and fill up nearly to the surface with rather 

 fiue peaty soil, and press it rather firmly, making the surface level, 

 and cover the latter with a thin stratum of silver sand, and give a 

 moderate watering through a fine rose, to make firm the surface, and 

 prevent the seeds being buried too deeply. Sprinkle the seeds upon 

 the surface thus prepared, and drop a little silver sand over them. 

 Place the pot in a saucer of water, and never apply water to the 

 surface of the soil until the plants are up and well-established, but 

 keep the saucer regularly supplied. A cucumber frame, or any 

 warm situation, will answer for raising the plauts in, but if in a 

 position where water from the syringe will be liable to fall on 

 the pot, this Avill be dangerous in carrying the seeds beyond the 

 depth at which they vegetate, and in this case the bell-glass should 

 De large enough to throw off whatever water may fall on it. When 

 the seedlings are fairly up, remove the glass, and inure them to the 

 air of the house, or pit, giving plenty of water in the saucer, and 

 also overhead. When sufficiently strong to bear handling, pot them 

 eingly in four-inch pots, and place them in a moist strong heat, afford- 

 ing them a shady situation until they get established in their pots, 

 with a liberal supply of water. During summer let them occupy a 

 position near the glass, but screened from the direct rays of the 

 sun ; top them as may be necessary to induce compact bushy speci- 

 mens, and maintain a moist warm temperature. 



If the plants were sown early and go on properly, they will 

 probably have well filled their pots with roots by the beginning or 

 middle of August, and such should be shifted into the next size 

 larger pot, but only a small shift should be given at this period, as 

 the growing season should be considered at an end by the middle of 

 September. After this the temperature should be cooler and drier, 

 and the plants should be gradually accustomed to a circulation of 

 air, and full exposure to the sun's rays, giving no more water to the 

 soil than is sufficient to keep the plauts from flagging. The Lisian- 

 thus is a somewhat precarious subject to winter, being very liable 

 to damp off at the neck, and beginners will act wisely in providing 

 against all losses, by growing a few spare plants. I have wintered 

 my plants in a close part of the greenhouse, with little or no loss, 

 and also in a cool part of the stove, but I have occasionally lost 

 severely in both situations. Whether in the stove or greenhouse, 

 the soil should be very sparingly supplied with water, and the pots 

 should be placed in flats, and water given in those, never wetting 

 the foliage nor surface soil ; and it will be unnecessary as well as 

 dangerous to water oftener than may be absolutely required. 



Maintain a night temperature of from 45° to 50°, which will be 

 sufficiently high for the winter. Early in February remove the 

 plants to a sharp, moist heat, of from 70° to 75°, or 85° will do no 

 injury, provided a humid atmosphere is maintained. As soon as 

 they start into growth, shift into pots a good size larger than those 

 in which they have been wintered, clearing away as much of the 

 sodden soil as can be done without injury to the roots. Keep them 

 near the glass, and as warm and moist as is convenient, sprinkling 

 overhead frequently with the syringe. Stop and peg down, or tie 



July. 



